The day Steven and I chose to tour Hong Kong's Central District brought home with a bang that we'd come across a few pockets of peace and serenity in the highly compact, densely populated territory. Covering approximately 430 square miles of land, Hong Kong is six times larger than Washington, DC, and about half the size of Tokyo, yet over 7.5 million people call it home, which makes it among the most densely populated places on the planet.
We started our own walking tour in Statue Square, a misnomer as only one statue survived the Japanese occupation during World War II. I wonder how Sir Thomas Jackson, a former bank manager, managed to escape the fate that befell the other statues?
I believe the ceramic panel in the square's fountain told the story of the city.
The attractive colonial-era building across from the park was called the Legislative Council Building.
Views of Hong Kong's skyscrapers from Statue Square:
I thought that, based on its name, Jardine House might have been associated with gardens, but the iconic Hong Kong skyscraper, once the tallest building in Asia, is best known for its rows of circular windows. Built on reclaimed land, the designers of the towering aluminium-clad building opted not to use square windows to maximize the building's structural integrity.
When we were there in early May 2024, Two International Finance Centre, or Two IFC, was the tallest building in the city, standing at 1,378 feet.
The Exchange Square complex housed the Hong Kong Stock Exchange.
Fortunately, we discovered that Central is a maze of well-marked overhead walkways, so that pedestrians don't have to contend with navigating streets and traffic.
Hong Kong is like Rome in that it's built on many hills! We could have followed the road straight up into one of them if we'd wanted to.
This skyscraper was the headquarters of the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, HSBC, and was designed by renowned architect Sir Norman Foster. When it was completed in 1985, it was the world's most expensive building at almost a billion dollars. It is known for its high-tech architectural style and distinctive design, and for looking down on the old Bank of China!
This is one of the two bronze lions, Stephen and Stitt, that proudly guard the bank's entrance. The first pair of lion sculptures, reportedly inspired by the lions outside the Venetian Arsenal, was commissioned for the HSBC Building in Shanghai, which opened in 1923. The lions came to be known as Stephen and Stitt after two managers from HSBC’s Shanghai branch, and are said to match each man's personality: Stephen is always roaring, and Stitt is looking afar in tranquillity.
This must be Stephen, the roaring one of the pair!
I read later that holes could be seen on the lions, as a result of shrapnel damage from shelling during the 1941 Battle of Hong Kong. When the bank’s head office was set to be demolished in 1981, the lions were relocated across the street to Statue Square, overlooking the construction of a new skyscraper. When it was completed, Feng Shui Master David Lung guaranteed that Stephen and Stitt were precisely placed in their original positions, ensuring they harmonized with the contour of the hill behind them. "Stephen and Stitt, preserved for nearly a century, now watch over Hong Kong’s Central, serving as a majestic testament to one of the world’s largest banks, and are revered for their excellent feng shui."
And Stitt, the more relaxed one!
Not to be outdone, the Bank of China hired famed architect I. M. Pei in 1990 to design the mighty, geometric Bank of China Tower, which looks like a crystal shot up in the air. It was created to withstand typhoon stresses equivalent to four times Los Angeles' earthquake requirements.
Although I liked the stories behind both bank buildings, I was far more drawn to the Henderson Building, which featured a unique curved-glass facade inspired by a blooming Bauhinia flower bud!
After craning our necks for so long in the concrete jungle and busy streets of Central, it was a welcome escape to enter the exquisitely manicured Hong Kong Park.
The park's K.S. Lo Gallery houses a collection of rare ceramics from ancient China and stone seals donated by Dr. K.S. Lo.
Flagstaff House in Hong Kong Park, built in 1846, is the oldest surviving example of Western architecture in Hong Kong. Originally named Headquarters House, it served as the residence and office of the Commander of the British Forces in Hong Kong from its completion in 1846 until 1978. It was converted in 1984 into the Museum of Tea Ware, which displays a collection of Chinese teaware and related relics. It was designated a Declared Monument in 1989 for its historical and architectural significance.
When I popped in for a moment, I learned that, at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, 1368-1644, tea was steeped in large teapots so that many cups of tea could be filled. When people realized that the tea leaves were too bitter from the long steeping process, the teapots were made much smaller.
How I would love to have cradled the delicate Pair of Bowls from the Ming Dynasty.
Believed to be the earliest tea painting, it was based on a story about Xiao Yi, a local censor during the Tang Dynasty, 618 to 907. Note the two servants pouring tea in the lower left corner.
I smiled when I read that the Lippo Centre was often nicknamed the Koala Building because its distinctive facade projections resembled koalas clinging to a tree!
What a shame that after spending time in other areas of China, we had become accustomed to seeing signs telling people not to do this, that, or the next thing. Signs on the rocks by the pond implored people not to put fish into the pond or take them out, lest they risk fines or imprisonment.
Believed to be the earliest tea painting, it was based on a story about Xiao Yi, a local censor during the Tang Dynasty, 618 to 907. Note the two servants pouring tea in the lower left corner.
I smiled when I read that the Lippo Centre was often nicknamed the Koala Building because its distinctive facade projections resembled koalas clinging to a tree!
What a shame that after spending time in other areas of China, we had become accustomed to seeing signs telling people not to do this, that, or the next thing. Signs on the rocks by the pond implored people not to put fish into the pond or take them out, lest they risk fines or imprisonment.
Apart from these people and a few others, the park was surprisingly empty, especially considering that it was in the heart of Central and thousands of people worked in the nearby skyscrapers.
I appreciated how the short steps forced people to slow down and admire the surroundings. There was no need to rush in such a serene park.
Nearby was the Victoria Peak Tram, considered an unmissable sight in Hong Kong. Before we climbed on the tram, we looked through the historical exhibits, including a first-generation carriage. When the tram was first conceived in 1881, it was the first funicular tramway in Asia. The first carriage transported 40 people in three different classes: Peak residents in first class, soldiers and police in second, and servants of Peak residents in third class. Prior to the current sixth generation of carriages, all the seats faced uphill to prevent passengers from falling forward during the steep descent. There were no lights in the earliest carriages. Later, carbide lamps were added, followed by electric fixtures.
The photo depicted a tram in the early 1900s and a sedan chair waiting for passengers.
Waiting for our turn to ascend to the top of Victoria Peak, at over 1,800 feet above sea level:
Before the tram opened, the only way to reach the top was to walk or take a bumpy ride in a sedan chair up the steps!
The nearer we got to the top, the stronger our inkling was that this would not be a great day to see much of the city's famous skyline!
The seven-minute ride was fun, but with the views almost non-existent, it was a bit of a bust.
We were left to imagine how stunning the sight of the "glittering forest of skyscrapers," Victoria Harbour, and the eight mountains in far-off Kowloon might be on a sunny day.
The ride down was a tad weird because of going backwards - that was our smile for the day!
And again, trying to put a positive spin on the experience, being so close to a real jungle in a city filled with a concrete jungle was enjoyable. I could understand why the people of Hong Kong are so proud of having the world's steepest funicular railway, as it was a remarkable engineering achievement.
We keep hearing so much in the West about religious persecution of minority groups in China, and I don't dispute that for a moment. We'd also heard about it first-hand in Tibet a week earlier. However, we also saw and independently visited churches, temples, and mosques in several cities. The tram ended near St. John's Cathedral the Evangelist of the Anglican Diocese of Hong Kong Island. I liked how its cross-shaped structure and Gothic architecture stood out from its skyscraper neighbors.
Opened for services in 1849, it was the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong and the mother church to the Province of Hong Kong and Macau. In addition, it was also the second-oldest building in Hong Kong! During the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong from 1941 to 1945, the Cathedral was transformed into a club for the occupying power. Sadly, many of the original fittings were removed, including the stained-glass.
St. Michael's Chapel was a quiet place for reflection and prayer.
The stained-glass windows were as beautiful as countless other churches we've been lucky enough to visit throughout the world. The main east window pictured Jesus on the cross outside Jerusalem.
The north window showed the story of Jesus calming the storm. It commemorated all those who lost their lives at sea during the world wars.
In the grounds was the grave of Private Maxwell, a Roman Catholic who was killed in action during the battle for the city. He was buried in the nearest suitable place where he perished.
Back to the hubbub of the city ...
As I mentioned above, Hong Kong is very hilly. An easy way to get up the hill between the Central and Western districts is to use the unimaginatively-named Mid-Level Escalator, the world's longest covered outdoor escalator. Free of charge and protected from the elements, it connects several main residential streets and walkways, making the uphill journey a breeze.
Taking the escalator felt a little like I'd imagine Peeping Tom to be, as we came so close to people's homes!
Before 10am, they only move downwards, carrying an endless crowd of workers (and their coffees!) into Central.
When the British arrived in 1841, Central was an uninhabited hillside. Warehouses and offices were built along Queen's Road because goods could be offloaded from ships in the deep water close to shore. The district became the commercial heart of the city, although the name Central is recent. Until World War II, the area was typically called Victoria in English. The Chinese name Chung Wan, meaning The Middle Bazaar, was given to a squatter area that was cleared in 1843.
We got off the escalator at the Tai Kwun stop to view how the former Central Police Station compound in Hong Kong had been revitalized into the Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts. It was the largest restoration project in Hong Kong. I wonder how former detainees felt, visiting it now!
The immense former Prison Yard, also known as the Parade Ground, was called the Big Yard in Cantonese. It was described as a place of parades, pageantry, and parking. In the mid-1860s, it was used for drill practice, plus ceremonial occasions, including medal presentations. To commemorate King George V's Silver Jubilee in 1935, a dragon dance was performed here.
Standing in front of the former Police Headquarters Block, built in 1919, was as close as I wanted to get!
At the far end of the yard stood the police station's legendary mango tree, which many officers believed would mean a good year for promotions if it bore plenty of fruit. But others thought that abundant fruit was a bad omen. I guess no one won that fruitless debate!
The rear of the complex looked less inviting.
It was then up the last set of escalators, for us at least, to head to the Jamia Mosque, Hong Kong's oldest. The original structure was constructed in the 1840s and rebuilt in 1915 with donations from Bombay merchants to replace the previous mosque on the same site.
I recall the entrance to the mosque, now commonly known as the Lascar Temple, was far more elaborate than the mosque itself.
The first mosque had been built as a place of worship for Muslims who mostly came from the Indian subcontinent and were primarily merchants. sailors, soldiers, police officers, and prison guards. The 'new' mosque can accommodate a congregation of 400 people.
Many mosques forbid non-Muslims from entering. That was not the case at Jamia, however.
We had a long trek then, through what had to have been one of the poorest areas of Hong Kong, en route to Hollywood Road, Hong Kong's first street. Shortly after the British arrived in 1841, a large Chinese residential and business community sprang up in the Sheung Wan area, and it became the center of the Chinese community. The heart of it was the main Chinese temple on Hong Kong Island, Man Mo Temple, which pre-dated the British arrival in Hong Kong.
Hollywood Road:
The three-block-long temple was built by wealthy Chinese merchants and was dedicated to Man Cheong, the God of literature, and Mo Tai, the God of martial arts, popular deities for students and scholars. The temple was declared a (National) Monument in 1910.
As we'd observed the day before at the temple in Macau, there was an abundance of large, incense spiral coils suspended from the roof. The temple was famous for the coils that could burn for weeks.
The rest of Hollywood Road, below the temple, developed into a street market selling secondhand items and, after World War II, became the hub of the city's antique trade. I was glad that was still the case, as I had great fun wandering in a few of them, and ended up buying a pretty, colorful cylindrical container that will always remind me of our day in Central.
Before we dropped dead from exhaustion for the day, Steven and I walked through the Edwardian-style, red-brick Western Market, built in 1906 and used as a food market for 83 years. The oldest existing market building in Hong Kong, also a Declared Monument, underwent an extensive preservation and revitalization process before reopening in 1991.
Downstairs, there was nothing remarkable; upstairs had an exceptional selection of satin and silk fabrics that would make any crafter drool!
A stone's throw from our hotel was the serene Lin Fa Kung Garden.
We both needed to put our feet up after that long day exploring Central!
Posted on St. Patrick's Day, 2026, 45 years to the day that Steven and I met in a long lineup, in a bank, in a small town in Mexico, as we like to tell the story! Please take care of yourself and your loved ones.
