Tuesday, June 30, 2020

3/13: India: The Coming Virus & Kochi's Jewtown

Steven and I had gotten up insanely early near the airport in Sri Lanka's capital to catch a 7:20 flight to Kochi, a city in southern India that has been drawing traders, explorers and visitors for over 600 years. There was what seemed to us to be extraordinary security even before we arrived at the Colombo airport with armed guards opening car doors checking to see who was inside, verifying passports, then our bags checked through X-ray machines before even checking in for our flight, and then again after going through security. Because of the coronavirus, we had to fill out two health forms for the Indian government, including one for its health department and also have our temperatures checked before departing.

It was only on arrival at the airport on Friday the 13th of March in Colombo that we learned that the Indian government had specified this would be the last day any international flights could arrive in their country because of the advancing coronavirus. To say that was a shock and wake up call for us is no exaggeration. But did we then realize we should cancel the rest of our four-month trip to much of Asia and the Middle East and head home right away? Nope - and I can only say we were still in a 'travel fog' and unwilling to accept that the whole world was about to change and it would very soon be unsafe for us to stay put.


Two days earlier, our hotel in Kochi that we'd reserved about eight months previously had cancelled on us so we were fortunate getting a reservation at the utterly charming Indy Old Courthouse House Hotel for the next three nights. On arrival, we were even treated to fresh watermelon juice!





After settling in for a bit, we headed out to see some of the sights in Kochi as it was still so early in the day. The historical European part of the city was located where we were in Fort Cochin. Kochi was located in the Indian state of Kerala that has drawn traders to the scent of its spices for more than 3,000 years. I'd read that the coastal area had been known to the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Arabs, and the Chinese as well as being a transit point from eastern Indonesia. 


Neither Steven nor I had heard of Kerala until we spent considerable time in the Middle East a few years ago and had come across people working in service industries, every one of whom came from Kerala! It was almost comical and we soon decided this was an area of India we wanted to explore after reading of the state's UNESCO-listed sites. The state is not just one of the most progressive in India, it also boasts the nation's highest literacy rate.




Not surprisingly, others have learned of its beauty so that Kerala has emerged as one of the most popular tourism hot spots in India. It's even been described as God's Own Country! Our plan was to spend a few days in Kochi, and then take a boat through Kerala's Western Ghats, see a tiger reserve and the Backwaters for another ten days. Ahh, the plans of mice and men ...!


The 45 minutes or so we'd been walking from the hotel Steven and I kept hearing the constant sounds of Muslim prayers amplified over loudspeakers being sung from mosques since we were in a heavily Muslim area. Strangely enough, though, we didn't see one mosque.


We stopped at St. George's Orthodox Koonan Kurish Old Syrian Church where a sign instructed worshippers to dress modestly, to remove shoes before entering, and not to sit cross legged in church. The latter was a new rule for me!



There was a single row of nine plastic chairs on the left for men and the same number on the right for women.



We'd hoped to enter the nearby Sree Vardhman Jain Temple but a sign said it was closed to foreigners because of Covid-19. That was the first indication we had that things around us were already changing for tourists but it still didn't alarm us as it should have in hindsight. 



About two miles south of Fort Cochin was the old bazaar district of Mattancherry and the center of the spice trade. Before we reached that area, we came to Jewtown and its Gan Shalom Synagogue which translated to Garden of Peace. We were disappointed on seeing a sign that said visitors were not allowed but then noticed maintenance workers arriving on a motorcycle and asked if we could enter. When they pointed to the sign, I remarked that we'd come all the way from North America and this would be our only chance of seeing it. They relented and we were in!


The cemetery wall and shed had been erected in honor of Ephraim Jacob Ochen and his sister in September of 1898.


To be able to freely walk among the ancient gravestones was such an honor, we thanked the men by tipping them but they insisted our 'donation' go toward the cemetery's maintenance.








Moments after we left we noticed other tourists wanting to enter but they weren't as fortunate as we'd been.


With the word 'crafters' in its name, the store drew me in like a magnet! However, it only sold furniture so we didn't dawdle long.



The Star of David on this building was a clear indication we were in the middle of Jewtown.


Walking down the street filled with shops and shop owners each standing outside imploring us to enter felt like running a gauntlet to me so I was reluctant to do any window shopping.


Darlene: You'd have loved this next shop that was full of beautiful clothes that had been hand-dyed on the spot with vegetable dyes.


With all the spice stores, the air was redolent with the aromas of ginger, cloves, and cardamon.






The Little Queen Embroidery store caught my attention right away as we knew we were excitedly expecting not one, but two granddaughters in just a matter of months. The store had a wonderful collection of the sweetest dresses but I wasn't confident that our daughter and daughter-in-law would opt for angelic, white, smocked dresses that would have to be ironed. I also feared they might consider the dresses too fussy. 


At the end of the row of shops was the Pardesi Synagogue that originally dated to 1598 though it was partially destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662. It was then rebuilt two years later by the Dutch when they took over Kochi. 


The synagogue was closed and no amount of persuasion was sufficient to allow us entry unfortunately. How we'd loved to have viewed the hand-painted, willow-pattern floor tiles from Canton, China, the Belgian chandeliers and other details. Though the majority of Pardesi's Jews have emigrated, I read the synagogue has still been excellently preserved. Perhaps we can restart our interrupted trip in Kochi next year and then be able to tour the synagogue.


Next post: We saw so much more that day but I want to save Kochi's iconic Chinese fishing nets, St. Francis Church, the Dutch Cemetery, etc for another day.

If you feel like a change of pace, here's a link to my most recent post on the amazing Assyrian exhibits and the elegant Elgin Marbles taken from Greece we saw at the British Museum  in London last October.

Posted on June 30th, 2020, from Spokane Valley, Washington state near Coeur D'Alene, Idaho, where we came to visit friends who moved there from Denver. It's been scary and frankly pretty horrifying to read of the recent, huge increases in the number of coronavirus cases across many part of the US. Steven and I hope you are each safe, and that you will continue to take special care of yourself and loved ones.

Saturday, June 27, 2020

Life & Art During Covid 19 - Part 3

This is the third in a series of photos I took while on walks with friends while escaping from 'sheltering in place' during the coronoavirus that has so changed the world. The previous posts reflected the joy, creativity, and, also yes, the political angst, people had getting out among others in these troubled times. I hope the following photos will make you smile at some of the fun and unusual moments I captured.

May 22nd: My friend and morning walking buddy, Darlene, and I passed by this grove in the open space west of Pierce many a time as it was near her home. It was intriguing watching the trees' changes over the space of a month. I don't know what trees they were but they always reminded me of bamboo trees Steven and I had seen on our travels.


It was always fun coming across this bench beyond the trees as nearby residents 'decorated' it frequently with rocks and inspirational sayings, something that never happened pre-pandemic.


Later that day, my afternoon walking buddy and friend, Gail, and I couldn't help but smile seeing the 'bear' clinging to the tree in the southern part of our neighborhood, Columbine Knolls South/Estates in Littleton.


I confess to never being a big dog lover but this one was awfully cute!




These pretty pink tulips were another harbinger of spring's beauty.


Before my 'pandemic strolls' I don't ever recall seeing Colorado's flag anywhere but on state buildings. Since I'd begun exploring neighborhoods near and far from my home with mainly Darlene and Gail, I noticed many homes were proud to fly the state flag.



May 23rd: I am not up in my classics to know whether Plato really penned this but seeing this on the trail at Wayside Meadows Park in our subdivision made me appreciate someone more cultured than I!



Gail and I also saw these unusual variety of day lilies that afternoon.


May 24th: With Steven busy on household projects that had been put on hold for a long time and my walking both mornings and afternoons in between catching up on trip blogs, he and I rarely got out to walk together. When we did that night, the normally placid creek at Wayside had swollen its banks due to a sudden storm.


The trail on the southwest side of the park was impassable so we had to take the long way back home, retracing our steps.


Several days earlier, Gail and I had walked through the graffiti-filled culvert under Wadsworth but Steven and I weren't temped that night!



Years ago, a landscaper recommended we plant these purple salvia against our fence. What a great suggestion as they were there the perfect plant for those who travel a lot like we do as they require almost no TLC and continue to bloom!


May 25th: I rather liked this piece of Americana.


Why be content with just one birdhouse if you can have more, seemed to be the motto of these homeowners!






May 26th: I have probably seen this 'sunburst' close to a dozen times when walking near Darlene's home and every time I like it more and more. Do you think the homeowners might notice if one rock were to 'accidentally' go missing every couple of days so it could be recreated somewhere else?!!




In case you think Gail and I don't live in the Wild West, here's proof!


The flowering bushes along Pierce looked so attractive until I got close and purposely took a whiff. And then, I almost gagged as they smelled ghastly, remember Gail?!


May 27th: 'Grandpa's Garden' at a home on Moraine in the adjacent Columbine West neighborhood was well loved as no doubt were his grandchildren if these lupines were an example. They inspired me to look for some of the perennials at a nursery a few days later!


Back in our neighborhood, Charlotte's flowers caught my eye.





The two C's: Columbine flowers and the Colorado flag at the rock garden on Moraine in our neighborhood.



I hope people will continue to paint and display rocks for all to admire even when the pandemic is but a distant memory because they bring such joy to others.


In case you forgot how much I loved lupines!



Our next door neighbors, Dave and Ginny, have some of the most exquisite peonies. When Gail knew how much I loved them, she kindly brought over a lovely bouquet of them for me from her garden. I was sad when I finally had to toss them when leaving for our current road trip to San Francisco and the northwest. 


Another stormy night at West Laurel Park directly across the street from our home:



May 28th: The smiley rock was new to the bench that morning in the open space west of Pierce that I walked with Darlene. Every time we walked there, I wondered what might be new to surprise us.


That afternoon, these wispy grasses caught my eye when walking with Gail.






I bet Wizard of Oz fans lived here!


A few days earlier if you recall, this same home had a black bear clinging to the tree. The residents must have had a large stuffed animal collection they wanted to display!


May 29th: I wonder if  the residents at this home in the southern part of our neighborhood had a family member serving our country, or were especially patriotic because of Memorial Day which had just past. Whatever the reason, I applaud their public recognition of the thanks we all owe the selfless patriots.


Next post: The last in this series of photos of Life & Art During Covid 19. 

I am simultaneously writing the last posts from two trips Steven and I took, one to Ireland and the UK last fall, and a much shorter one to Sri Lanka and India in March that was planned to have been four months long and take us through much of Asia and the Middle East. IF you want a change of pace and locale, here are links to the most recent posts from each trip:

Posted on June 27th, 2020, from along the Columbia River Gorge  in The Dalles, Oregon, as we slowly wend our way through the Northwest's most beautiful national parks en route home. Please take care and be safe.