A quick 20-minute jaunt from beautiful Taormina was the much larger city of Catania, also on Sicily’s eastern coast. Known as the island’s second city, it was surprising that Catania was there at all as almost every century has seen its share of tragedy for the Catanesi: a Greek tyrant cast out the population, another sold most of the inhabitants into slavery, and Carthaginians drove out successive inhabitants away again. After the city was rebuilt each time, it faced still more destruction: the plague decimated the population in the Middle Ages; Mount Etna erupted in 1669, covering part of Catania with a mile-wide swath of lava; and a mere 25 years later, a massive earthquake forced the city to start anew.
After facing a long period of crime, urban decay, and filth, we read that the city was in the middle of another resurrection. That wasn’t immediately evident as we found it much grittier than anything we'd encountered since leaving Palermo, the island's capital on the northwest coast.
The massive building belonged to the Capellania Universitaria, described as possibly Sicily’s best one.
When we reached the city center, our initial impressions changed as there was stunning architecture and signs of gentrification at every turn. Sicily's Regional Assembly on the main artery of Via Etnea was a prime example. Though it was mostly a pedestrian street, we had to be very careful of the many scooters, police cars, and deli trucks darting hither and thither with little warning.
Located opposite the university, the aptly named Basilica della Colleggiata, also known as Santa Maria dell'Elemosina, was a delightful surprise. The church, described as an example of the Sicilian Baroque, was built in the early 18th century after the 1693 earthquake destroyed most of the city.
After the city was rebuilt following the earthquake, its informal mascot was U Liotru, an elephant carved out of black lava stone from Mount Etna balancing on an Egyptian obelisk.
The black lava and white limestone facade of the Cattedrale di Sant'Agata, or the Duomo, dominated the Piazza del Duomo also located on Via Etnea. It was closed then, but we hoped to visit it later.
The Palazzo dei Chierici, or the Seminary of Clerics, was also on the piazza. It likely dates back to the 16th century but was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1693. The palazzo was connected to the cathedral via a bridge over Porta Uzeda.
We then wandered through more of the Centro Historico, or Historic District, beginning with the Fontana dell’Amenano, where we caught a glimpse of the underground river of the same name that flows through much of the city. But, since we knew the best place to view the river was sitting at an underground table at a bar cum restaurant called A Putia dell’Ostello and watching the water swirl by, we headed there.
We stopped in at the bar but were advised to return in 90 minutes because there was a wedding party, so we admired more of the city’s predominantly Baroque architecture.
The Castello Ursino, now a museum:
We backtracked to the Duomo when it opened at 4.
The cathedral was impressive, but it didn't rock our socks off as much as other Duomos we'd been lucky enough to tour elsewhere in Sicily. The best, by far, had been in Monreale, near Palermo.
The cathedral contained the tomb of composer Vincenzo Bellini.
The attractive but overgrown Palazzo Stella!
A Roman thermal complex to service Catania's port district had been built using blocks of lava and cement. Still visible were ten rooms with their original coverings, including an impressive domed octagonal room.
I ended up returning by myself to the restaurant a third time to see the underground river after being fobbed off a second time! Steven had lost interest in seeing the river by then, so he waited outside. My perseverance finally paid off as a waiter kindly took pity on me and agreed to escort me to the cave-like setting.
There was no underground cafe in the regular sense but a group of people were avidly listening to an instructor extol the river's charms! I don't think Steven missed anything much, but I was glad to have had the chance to see the unusual river.
The Teatro Antico, or Ancient Theater, was located on the slope of a hill where a Greek theater had previously existed. The current appearance dated to the 2nd century AD and to the changes made between the 3rd and 4th centuries.
Living in a comparatively brand-new country like the US, I still marvel at the location of such antiquities in the middle of a major city.
We walked back along Via Etnea again, where, unfortunately, we were a little bit early for one of Sicly's most famous passeggiatas, where Catanesi of all ages take part in a sunset stroll. I hope, Sarah, you and and your friends will enjoy the evening activity. If you and your friends are shoppers, I suggest you stop by Folk, a shop specializing in unusual but lovely items made of lava stone. I bought and later gifted a cheese board there, and now I wish I had bought a second one for us!
Next post: Exploring Siracusa's archaeological sights.
Posted on December 29th, 2024, from San Francisco, where we've been visiting our son and his young family since leaving Miami. The flight here was six-plus hours, longer than if we'd flown from NYC to London. On that flight, we'd have been treated to two meals and drinks rather than just a measly package of crackers! Fortunately, our grandchildren's hugs and kisses made us immediately forget about long domestic flights. Wishing you and your loved ones a very Happy and Healthy New Year. Please take care of yourself, be safe, and have fun wherever life takes you in 2025.
