On our last morning in Hong Kong, Steven and I had a few hours to wander along the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong. If we had an extra day or so, we probably would have explored the galleries at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, the city's first public art museum, as we've always been drawn to Chinese art. Its location, with stupendous views (even on yet another rainy day!) across Victoria Harbour to Hong Kong Island, was hard to beat.
The Hong Kong Film Awards Statue paid homage to filmmakers who had made significant contributions to the city's film industry and helped promote its movies to international audiences.
We're so accustomed here in the States to seeing big-name movie and music stars being recognized by having their handprints imprinted on the ground in various Walks of Fame. In Hong Kong, however, film stars' handprints and a description of their contributions were on the railing as far as the eye could see!
Yours truly, standing beside McDull, a beloved pig cartoon character originally introduced in 2011 to celebrate Hong Kong's film industry, often depicted pointing towards the sky.
Nearby, Steven imitated the iconic martial arts legend, Bruce Lee. The bronze statue, unveiled on November 27, 2005, to commemorate what would have been Bruce Lee's 65th birthday, depicted Lee in a pose from his famous film Fist of Fury.
Outside K11 MUSEA, a prominent cultural and retail landmark in Hong Kong, was a large totem pole art installation by Alicja Kwade. The artist used marble spheres to represent planets and otherworldly realms within a towering structure of chairs! How does someone come up with such a concept?!
The commemorative sculpture of the Beijing 2008 Summer Olympic Torch on the Avenue of Stars evoked the torch relay's passage through Hong Kong, one of the international stops before the games in Beijing.
The following are more images of the stark Hong Kong Cultural Centre, which we'd viewed on our first day in Hong Kong. Steven and I aren't normally fans of ultra-modern architecture (or art), but the angular lines of its base appealed to me.
Outside the centre was the Flying Frenchman sculpture. That might have appealed to you, Naomi!
I'll post some impressions of our exciting visit to China later, which began two weeks earlier in Shanghai, then a whirlwind trip to Tibet, time with pandas and irrigation systems in Chengdu, and finally ended in thrilling Hong Kong. What a breeze it was getting to the airport after a taxi driver dropped us off at a metro station, where we took the Airport Express two minutes later for a 30-minute ride to the airport.
The public art installations at Hong Kong International Airport were called About to Board and Raise Me High. Created by a Hong Kong artist and known as ceramic fat lady sculptures, they immediately brought to mind works by Colombian sculptor, Fernando Botero. These were designed to bring a "jolly, rustic charm and interactive energy to the airport terminal." With the absolute chaos occurring at airports throughout the US right now, these works might bring a smile to some harried travelers.
Our trip's next stop was the tiny sultanate of Brunei, a country that surely must have the longest name for its capital: Bandar Seri Begawan, although it's known simply as Bandar. On the flight, we heard a graphic announcement stating that the fine for having (or perhaps only trafficking, I wasn't sure) illegal drugs was capital punishment under Brunei law. Nobody visiting the remnant of a naval empire that once ruled all of Borneo and part of the present-day Philippines could ever say they weren't notified!
In addition, a strict interpretation of Sharia law was introduced in 2019, which also made adultery and homosexual acts punishable by death by stoning, and theft punishable by the amputation of limbs. This new direction has prompted global criticism and concern, and has made the future of tourism uncertain.
6/8: The next morning, our hotel kindly arranged for a private boat tour to take us a few minutes later from the jetty, a five-minute walk away, of the mangrove swamps on the Brunei River, after which the country was named. The river flows through the heart of Bandar and has been a vital part of local life for centuries.
The jetty near our hotel:
I can't remember the last time we first came across a mosque from the water! Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, an iconic landmark located in the capital, was completed in 1958 and named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei, the current Sultan's late father. It wasn't by chance that its 170-ft.-high minaret made it the tallest building in central Bandar! When the height of the nearby Bank of Brunei building originally exceeded the minaret, its top story was promptly removed at the behest of the Sultan.
Doesn't the Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge look like a wishbone?!
One of the biggest attractions in the capital is Kampong Ayer, the world's largest water village. The traditional settlement, home to approximately 30,000 inhabitants and comprising stilt houses, schools, and mosques built over the Brunei River, is often referred to as the Venice of the East.
The Duli Pengiran Muda Mahkota Pengiran Muda Haji Al-Muhtadee Billah Mosque (phew, what a mouthful!) is located in Kampong Ayer.
A closer view of the mosque:
Almost hidden by the mangroves was the gold-domed Istana Nuru Iman, also known as the Royal Palace. What a shame that a country with the largest oilfields in Southeast Asia couldn't, or chose not to, clean up its main waterway, as the amount of trash was appalling.
The amount of traffic on the river was surprisingly minuscule, especially once we moved beyond the palace. We didn't know whether it was the time of day, the day of the week, or another factor.
A better view of the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah, and the seat of the Brunei government. The world's largest residential palace was four times larger than Versailles, had 1788 rooms, air-conditioned stables for the Sultan's polo ponies, and a whopping 256 bathrooms! It's only open to visitors for three days following Ramadan.
Our boatman spoke very little English, unfortunately, so there was little conversation and scant discussion about what we were seeing from the boat.
We requested that our boatman take us closer to Kampong Ayer, which had existed for over 1,000 years, and was a series of 42 contiguous stilt villages. One hundred years ago, half of Brunei's Malay population lived here, and still many Bruneians prefer the water village to home on dry land. The community has its own schools, mosques, fire and police stations.
When we saw one of Kampon Ayer's primary schools, I joked with Steven about where the kids play during recess!
The painted sun-bleached homes, in shades of green, yellow, pink, and blue, had not been gussied up for tourists.
I think the blue building on the left was another primary school, but for non-Muslims.
No school buses in Kampong Ayer, of course - the students walk from jetty to jetty to reach their school!
Again, I was surprised by how few boats or water taxis plied the waterways.
The Al-Muhtadee Billah Mosque was one of the main mosques serving the historic village's Muslim community.
Another primary school:
It's impossible to tell from the photo, but the netting over the water had the equivalent of streetlights, so people could more easily make their way at night!
These newer homes had been built by the government, but I don't know whether that meant they were subsidized housing or what.
A shot of one of the jetties:
In the distance was the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the first one we'd seen from the water that morning.
It was with some trepidation tinged with excitement that we were dropped off at the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery, because we understood that we'd be responsible for making our own way back across the river after exploring the stilt village! The boatman assured us that we needed only to wave at a passing boat taxi to get a ride - we sure hoped he was correct!
We'd read that the Gallery, which opened in 2000, was a good place to get acquainted with Brunei's pre-oil culture, and to learn about the history, lifestyle, and culture of the Kapmpong Ayer people. We learned that, as a national landmark, Kampong Ayer receives a substantial annual government budget for its basic yet modern infrastructure. Each home is supplied with electricity and clean water. Phone lines, sanitation, trash removal (such as it was!), gas stations, grocery stores, a community hall, and a postal service were some of the other amenities.
Economic activities, mainly focused on fishing and handicrafts, have created jobs across different villages. Some villages have been named after the products and economic activities found there. Boat-making is carried out on a smaller scale. These souvenirs were miniaturized food covers called tudong dulang, made by weaving the leaves of Nipah palms that grow along the river.
Following a decline in traditional handicrafts in the early 20th century, the Brunei Arts and Crafts Training Centre was established to provide opportunities for younger Bruneians to inherit these skills. Cloth weaving was considered important because hand-woven cloth is worn at cultural ceremonies, national celebrations, and other ceremonial occasions. Items woven from the leaves of the nipah palm and other local trees, including food covers, mats, and baskets, are made in Kampong Setia.
The villagers in Kampong Ayer celebrate occasions based on Islamic principles, including circumcision for boys and girls, honoring new mothers forty days after delivery, and aqiqah or animal sacrifice when a baby is a week old.
Archaeological findings have revealed that Kampong Ayer regularly shifted its location to ensure the comfort, safety, and security of its residents before finding a permanent home here on the river. Kampong Ayer was mentioned by foreign visitors to Brunei long ago, beginning with the Chinese in the 10th century, and the Europeans in the early 16th century.
Before foreign traders arrived, the local community used natural materials such as leaves, stone, wood, and clay. Once ceramic stoneware and metal tools were introduced, they became indispensable to the community.
15th-century Western records indicate that Kampong Ayer was an important district at the time. It was dubbed the Floating City and the Venice of the East in 1521 by Antonio Pigafetta, and contained 25,000 families living in wooden houses on the water. Subsequent explorers in 1579 and 1590 wrote about a settlement by the river with beautiful wooden houses, especially the Sultan's enormous palace.
Trade in Kampong Ayer was dominated by women in small boats called bidar, who placed their wares at the helm. The Spanish called the boats bancas, which the women used to sell agricultural products and local foods in the floating markets.
During the height of the Brunei empire, Kampong Ayer was the administrative center, the seat of government, a commercial port, and a hub between Brunei and other countries, including China. A 1911 census showed that almost half of the country's population were living in Kampong Ayer.
Ready and excited to explore Kampong Ayer on our own! Note the lack of banisters on the 'sidewalk.'
With no guide, let alone one who spoke passable English, we didn't know what we were looking at, but strolling the often rickety paths with missing planks was still great fun. It gave us a far greater sense of life in the village than we had at Tai O, the Venice of the North, outside of Hong Kong, just two days earlier. We had to smile, considering we had traveled to two different 'Venices' in the space of a couple of days!
A sign said this was the Jabal Rahmah House, but we didn't know what it was or who it was for.
Steven hailing a boat taxi:
I can assure you that we both heaved a sigh of relief when one arrived a few minutes later. Finding out that the cost to take us across the river was less than two bucks was also reassuring, since the taxi driver must have known we had no recourse if he wanted to bilk us.
On the mainland, we were immediately greeted by the Mercu Dirgahayu 60, a gilded fountain monument on the waterfront, inaugurated in 2006 to celebrate the 60th birthday of Brunei's Sultan. The design incorporated the Arabic numeral for 60, symbolizing long life for the Sultan.
Through the spectacular arch was a very different view of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. On this historical site, Brunei's independence from Great Britain was proclaimed on New Year's Day, 1984. The venue is used for national celebrations, including His Majesty's birthday and Prophet Mohammed's birthday.
The Memorial Clock Tower, on Jalan (Queen) Elizabeth 2, commemorated the visit of the first King of Malaysia to Brunei in 1959. It also marked the Zero Kilometer point from which all road distances in Brunei are measured.
With only two days in the capital, we couldn't make time to tour the Brunei History Centre, which was established in 1982 by the Sultan. The institution was dedicated to the research, documentation, and publication of Bruneian history, and also focused on the sultanate's history, royal genealogy, and cultural heritage.
Another view of the museum:
The Royal Ceremonial Hall was famous for hosting the current Sultan's coronation in 1968.
Across from it was the Royal Regalia Museum, built to commemorate the 1992 Silver Jubilee of His Majesty's ascension to the throne. What a conundrum people have when they must present a gift to the Sultan of Brunei, as it begs the question of what on earth do you give a man who has everything?!
The Royal Chariot was used during the Royal Procession to parade His Majesty during the Coronation ceremony. It was carried by 40 members of the Brunei Armed Forces, fully attired in black. The chariot was also used when Her Majesty the Queen visited in 1972.
A very brief history of Brunei: The period between 1485 and 1521 was described as the Golden Age of Brunei when it exercised control over much of Borneo and parts of the Philippines. That was followed by the Spanish Castile War of 1535, when 80 Spanish armadas bombarded Brunei, capturing the capital briefly before retreating due to disease. In 1846, Brunei lost the island of Labuan to the British. About 40 years later, Brunei became a British protectorate, with Britain handling its external affairs.
The discovery of oil in 1929 was the beginning of a major economic shift. From 1941 to 1945, Japan occupied Brunei during World War II. Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin III introduced a written constitution in 1959, granting internal self-government. Following the 1962 Brunei Revolt against the monarchy and potential federation with neighboring Malaysia, which was suppressed with British help, the Sultan decided against joining the Federation of Malaysia the next year. Brunei gained full independence in 1984, becoming a sovereign Islamic sultanate. The tiny nation remains an absolute monarchy.
During the coronation ceremony, the two-pronged spear was held by two officials who preceded the procession. The regalia is also used in royal state events such as royal weddings.
The army of traditionally dressed, headless mannequins represented those present at the coronation who accompanied the chariot.
A second grand golden royal chariot was also on display!
The Sultan's personal emblem, used on his royal standard and representing the monarchy, featured the Arabic script for Allah at the top and included a crown, a crescent moon (a symbol of Islam), and a winged royal parasol.
His Majesty Haji Hassanal, followed by about 20 other names:
Photos then recounted His Majesty's life, including his visit to the Seria oil field, his appointment as crown prince, his stint at England's Sandhurst Royal Military Academy, from which he graduated in 1967, his marriage to his first wife at age 19, and the royal procession during the coronation.
Some royal gifts:
We recognized the guide who had been at the Kampong Ayer Cultural Gallery. He was now showing other visitors the golden gift presented by the Emir of Bahrain.
The gift from the head of state of Saudi Arabia was a solid-gold and precious-metal model of the Grand Mosque in Mecca, also known as the Prophet Mohammed's final resting place.
Please excuse the reflections from the glass protecting the solid silver model of the Cambodian Angkor Wat temple complex, the largest religious monument in the world. It was a gift from His Majesty King Norodom Sihamoni in 2000.
The gift from the US Secretary of State in 2016 seemed paltry by comparison.
An image in mosaics of His Majesty, who was also known as Brunei's Architect in Chief and was responsible for the city's massive development since it gained independence.
Although I should have expected such displays of opulence at the Royal Regalia Museum, the scale still caught me by surprise.
After viewing the stunning Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque from the river, we were curious to see Brunei's signature landmark, surrounded by an artificial lagoon, up close.
This being Brunei, the mosque interior was lavish, with the floor and walls made from the finest Italian marble, the chandeliers designed in Monaco and crafted in England, and the luxurious carpet woven in Saudi Arabia!
The 18 bronze doors, each weighing 550 pounds, were also adorned with stained glass!
The courtyard:
The ceremonial stone boat gracing the lagoon was a replica of a 16th-century mahligai or royal barge where Koran-reading competitions were once held.
The mosque was seen as a manifestation of Muslim presence in Brunei, symbolizing the Muslim faith and serving as a holy place. Its plans were drawn up in 1949 and inspired by the Taj Mahal. Each detail of the ten-million-dollar complex, which could accommodate 3,000 congregants at one time, was approved by the Sultan.
The mosque's palatial surroundings were described as the hub of life in Bandar, as residents come for prayer and then stroll along the palm- and baobab-tree-lined waterfront.
Gold plate was melted and mixed with paint to create the main gold dome.
We were made to feel welcome throughout the mosque and its grounds, because we had both dressed conservatively, and I had worn my scarf over my head the entire time.
A nearby government office building was also resplendent.
Later that evening, Steven did his damndest to help me celebrate my 70th birthday in Brunei's capital by searching out the best steak restaurant. The company was indeed the best, but I don't recommend choosing steak if you're in Brunei! Plus, not being able to enjoy a glass of wine in the dry nation for a special birthday was rather sad!
Next post: Climbing a treetop canopy in Ulu Temburong National Park, Brunei's first national park!
Posted on March 23rd, 2026, for the last time in a few months from our home outside of Denver, as we're leaving in a few days on another trip of a lifetime!. Please take care of yourselves and your loved ones.
