On our late summer road trip last August, Steven and I had just finished exploring southeastern Ohio before entering 'wild and wonderful' West Virginia. After staying overnight in the Civil War town of Clarksburg, we stopped at the West Virginia Civilian Conservation Corps Museum because a big sign advertised it was also home to West Virginia Heritage Crafts, one of the state's oldest artisan cooperatives. That certainly was music to my ears! The shop was located in the historic Quiet Dell School built in 1922 as a two-room school for grades 1-8.
BTW: Clarksburg attracts more than a hundred thousand people every Labor Day weekend for its West Virginia Italian Heritage festival - who knew there was a significant Italian community in West Virginia - certainly not I!
Our plan for the day was to tour the sights in Monongahela National Forest and end up for the night in Elkins, West Virginia, which was only 34 miles away. However, as you probably have figured out by now, for us it meant traveling along all the back roads to take in the area attractions!
I've been used to knitting in the car while Steven drives on our road trips; however, knitting was impossible that day because I had to pay extra close attention to the GPS as we had to turn left, then right, then left again every few miles.
Stunning views of the forest dotted the Brushy Fork Church Road aka the Mountaineer Highway.
The Appalachian mountain town of Thomas near Blackwater Falls State Park was known for its art galleries, microbreweries, and proximity to challenging climbing and mountain biking trails.
If it had been a little later in the day, stopping for BBQ would have been high on our list of things to do! But the state park lured us a few miles further.
Beginning in 1853, David Hunter Strother wrote a series of articles under the pen name, Porte Crayon, about his adventures in the Blackwater region for Harper's New Monthly Magazine. His colorful descriptions and detailed illustrations were widely read. Crayon provided a good description of the area before the removal of the virgin forests and settlement changed the land.
For centuries, the pristine wilderness that occurred here had been left undisturbed by man. Even Indigenous Americans only used the area in the mild summer months as the winters were harsh. Nobody knows who the first non-White people were to see Blackwater Falls. Crayon introduced the world to the waterfall.
Steven and I were so fortunate that we didn't have to scramble down a boulder-strewn path and climb over downed trees to view the falls as early visitors had to do! The 200-step boardwalk took us to the falls' closest viewing point.
Because the path followed the slope's natural contours down to the waterfall and blended in with the surrounding natural features, the walkway looked like it belonged here. That was the concept of 'organic design' as referred to by famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright.
The water from the Blackwater River plunged 57 feet to form Blackwater Falls. From the falls, it descended through the Blackwater Canyon, and the river headed west to join the Dry Fork River 12 miles downstream before eventually reaching the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico.
Leaving the park we came across another charming mountain town. This one was called Davis and owed its vitality to the outdoor enthusiasts who throng to the nearby state parks, ski hills, 18-hole championship golf courses, etc!
Somehow, Steven and I missed seeing the Fairfax Stone, seven miles north of Davis that marked the western boundary of the lands owned by Lord Fairfax. Under the terms of a grant issued by the King of England, Fairfax owned all the lands between the Potomac and the Rappahannock rivers, and the marker was the boundary between the states of Maryland and Virginia, now West Virginia.
Even though we'd only been in West Virginia for a day by this point, already we'd seen a far greater number of dollar stores than in any other of the states we've traveled through.
A short while later, we reached the 'town' of Seneca Rocks where it looked as if time had stood still.
Rising above the North Fork River, Seneca Rocks was a 900-foot-tall mass of eroded quartzite sandstone. It was described as one of the most impressive rock formations in the eastern US and also considered to be a favorite destination for rock climbers. According to a legend, Snow Bird, the lovely daughter of Seneca tribal chief Bald Eagle held a competition to determine who should become her husband. The lucky man would be the first warrior to ascend the mighty cliff that she had been climbing since she was a child!
A sign at the beginning of the 1.3 mile-long Seneca Rocks Hiking Trail with its 800-ft. in elevation warned us not to enter climbing areas or climbing access routes as we might expose ourselves and others to potentially deadly hazards such as falling rocks.
The soaring cliffs at Seneca Rocks were comprised of Tuscarora Sandstone or quartzite which had been laid down in a sea environment 425 million years ago. After millions of years, the overlaying rock had been stripped away by erosion, leaving remnants of a mountain whose peaks reached 13,000 feet. It was the strong cement binding the quartz grains together that explained why Seneca Rocks remained standing and not the softer rocks around them that had long been worn away by nature's forces.
The trees on this section of the trail looked like they were barely clinging by their roots and that a good, strong wind would fell them in an instant!
When we looked closely, we could tell that there were several types of lichen growing on these rocks. I don't think I'd known that lichens were actually two plants living together with the fungi part providing the anchors and the algae producing food. Did you know that many species of lichens grow 50 years but some can actually live for 4,500 years?
I was reminded that even dead trees provide food and water for wildlife. Den trees made popular homes for raccoons and for insects living inside until they may be eaten by a woodpecker who could also live here.
The exposed rocks here were all sedimentary rock which were formed when layers of sediment (duh!) were cemented together by time, heat, and pressure. The smooth layers on this rock had been carved by moving water and sand-sized material suspended in the water. What a difference between them and the jagged rocks just ahead.
This boulder train or 'river of rocks' was slowly moving downhill after breaking off from Seneca Rocks due to weathering processes such as freezing and thawing. These rocks would eventually reach the river where they would probably be worn smooth by water.
Part of that 800-foot elevation gain!
This layered rock was made up of very fine-grained sediment that had originally been deposited millions of years ago in very still water. We noticed that roots had grown down through cracks and among layers, a process that breaks the bedrock into small buts and eventually into soil.
Up we trudged, one foot at a time! I really liked this sort of trail as it was so wide and there were no large boulders to hop over as there had been a day earlier in Hocking Hills State Park!
I had nothing but complete admiration and gratitude for those who had cleared all these rocks for us to enjoy the six-foot-wide trail. With a 69 degree temperature and a mild drizzle, hiking conditions could hardly have been better.
The higher we ascended we noticed that the soil was thinner than it had been at the beginning of the trail. That was due to the elevation and slope because the soil washes downhill before much of it could accumulate.
This was the brightest green moss imaginable and was only located in one spot!
Hoping we were near the end of the rail, Steven joked that I take a picture showing that we were going steeply uphill. Not sure this qualifies but I tried, honeybun!
At higher elevations, conifers and laurel trees were more abundant since they were more tolerant in colder temperatures and poor soils. At the very top Table Mountain Pine managed to grow in practically no soil by wrapping its roots around rocks and into crevices.
The only flowers we'd spotted on the entire trail were these close to the end of the trail.
After a marvelous hour's hike, we reached the summit and were treated to these drop-dead gorgeous views.
WAY down below us was the 'town' of Seneca Rocks where we'd stopped and taken a couple of photos.
We knew not to take chances by venturing past the platform at the observation deck as more than 20 people have died falling from the rocks. A possibly better view from higher up definitely wasn't worth risking our lives.
Somehow I had missed seeing these minuter flowers on the hike up!
After taking 50 minutes to hike down to the bottom, we stopped to look back up and admire the great view.
We walked over to the Sites Homestead that had originally been constructed in 1839 by Jacob Sites as a single-room log cabin. It was later expanded by one of his sons into this two-story frame home using locally available materials and skilled craftsmen.
While fighting for the Confederacy in the Civil War, the younger Sites was captured in 1862 and died here shortly after his release. Once descendants no longer lived in the family home after1947, the home saw new life as a hay barn. The Forest Service purchased the home in 1969, and reconstruction began in 1989 to replicate much of the home's original architectural detail.
We've all heard the phrase, "Good fences make good neighbors." That was certainly true in pioneer gardens when fences were used to keep out the livestock and wild animals. This was the first time I had seen a paling fence.
Another name for the split rail fence was a worm fence!
Popcorn was grown as a 'fun' crop by early settlers as popping popcorn over the fire was a pleasant evening activity.
Giant Zinnias like these were important in pioneer gardens as they helped to attract bees and boost pioneer women's spirits from a life of hardship. Janina and Yvonne: Did you realize the large-flowered blooms originated in Germany?
This from the 'you learn something new everyday category' - I hadn't known there was such a thing as broom corn which was grown not to be eaten but only for making brooms as the name implies! In the frontier, people had to grow this special corn rather than buying brooms made in England.
The garden shed was only representative of the many outbuildings that had once been present at the Sites Homestead. It had actually been moved from another homestead in the area.
Next up was our drive to Spruce Knob, the highest point in West Virginia at 4,861 or 4,863 feet depending on which sign we saw is correct!
This was one of the striking homes in the lovely town of Circleville, West Virginia.
I was so lucky that Steven was such an experienced driver and we were on the twisty, steep Forest Road in the summer as it could be dangerous during hazardous driving conditions. Thank goodness all the roads we'd traveled on so far in West Virginia were in such great condition compared to those we'd just driven on in Ohio.
Masses of coneflowers 'decorated' both sides of the road for us just before the East Overlook.
Even with the clouds blocking some of the mountain views, we still found the sight beautiful.
The Forest Road continued en route to the summit of Spruce Knob.
When we finally reached the summit of the road, we started on the short Whispering Spruce Trail so we could reach some wonderful views from the Spruce Knob Tower. We just hoped that the trail would not have the same elevation gain as the one to Seneca Rocks!
If elves and wood nymphs ever existed, Steven and I thought this would have been their perfect habitat!
If you've traveled much around the US, you likely have been to a few National Recreation Areas (NRA) as designated by Congress and managed by three different federal agencies. When Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks NRA was established in 1965, it was the first NRA managed by the USDA Forest Service.
Somebody worked hard to build this cairn, especially since it wasn't even next to the trail!
To get a better geographical sense of where we were that August day, click on the map to make it bigger.
Ascending the Fire Tower gave us stellar panoramic views of the countryside.
Even in this harsh climate, the trees grew well. Back in 1969, the Forest Service used to cut down the trees so visitors could have a 360-degree view from the Tower.
But, it was realized that the same trees that blocked our view also provided critical habitat for several endangered species. If the trees were again removed, it would be akin to removing the walls and roof of our own homes. Just as we couldn't live in such a home, neither can animals.
Spruce Knob lay slightly above the crest ridge of Spruce Mountain which was strewn with fragments of Pottsville Sandstone from the Pennsylvania Age.
Whatever its exact elevation, Spruce Knob was the highest point in the state of West Virginia and Spruce Mountain was the highest ridge in the Allegheny Mountains. Because of its rounded shape that extended 16 miles, the mountain was described as a 'whale-backed' ridge.
The mountain was thought to have formed during the collision of the African and North American tectonic plates 250 million years ago. When they collided, the edges of the plates uplifted and folded over themselves. Over millennia, finer material eroded away, leaving stronger, more resilient material above which left the mountains we saw.
We finally reached our hotel in the town of Elkins around 7 that night after stopping for dinner at a Bob Evans restaurant that was his dad's favorite. I think we figured we'd driven no more than 30 or so miles even though it had taken us eight hours! We couldn't possibly have picked a better way to spend our day than traveling these back roads through the Monongahela National Forest as the sights were just breathtaking. West Virginia continued to amaze us - we couldn't wait to explore even more of the state that receives far too little credit and publicity.
Next post: Motoring along West Virginia's Highland Scenic Highway, stopping at the Cranberry Glades Botanical Area, and more!
Posted early on February 25th, 2021, from the winter wonderland that has enveloped Denver overnight thanks to the largest snowstorm of the season. Luckily, I took a picture to remind myself of the unbelievably warm, 65-degree afternoon just 36 hours ago when people were warm in shorts and t-shirts. Gotta love Denver in the winter! Stay safe and warm.
Thanks again Anne for a lively look at the places you've travelled. I love to drive backroads and tertiary roads and twists and turns and hills and such. I'm sure Steve does too but much is lost if you don't have a companion to share it with; so you two make a perfect couple in a symbiotic relationship - each deriving benefit from the other. Keep on keeping on!
ReplyDeleteJohn,
ReplyDeleteWe are very lucky that we do both enjoy driving the roads less traveled as we discover more of my adopted country. I think I got the better end of the stick as I only have to navigate and gaze out the window while Steven must contend with the twists and turns!
The twists and turns are the fun part! The straightaways are boring. But of course a good navigator is indispensable.
ReplyDeleteYou're indeed right about the twists and turns being more enjoyable but there came a point after many hours of those sorts of roads that the straightaway would have been more appealing for Steven!
ReplyDelete