5/26/24: Lhasa's Revered Potala Palace & Jokhang Temple

As I mentioned in the previous post, Lhasa's elevation was almost 12,000 feet and therefore was tough for us to acclimate to upon arriving from Shanghai. Our oxygen levels dropped to an alarming rate of just 66 but we were able to use canned oxygen to raise those up. The tall, skinny cans became our constant companion while in Lhasa. The prospect of climbing an additional 650 feet on our first morning to reach the top of Potala Palace was a tad scary, quite frankly. But it didn't dissuade us from continuing on as planned.

The travel agency had assigned us a Chinese driver although we didn't realize that until the last day and therefore the possible impact. As he drove our Tibetan guide and us down Lhasa's main street en route to the Palace, the guide suggested we call him Migma, short for Migmartsering which meant 'long life.' He told us there are no first names in Tibet. 

After just visiting Japan and, to a lesser extent China, we were accustomed to seeing signs proclaiming 'no' to this and 'no' to that by the time we reached Tibet. That was rather sad in my opinion.

Women in the square were wearing the traditional dress of central Tibet. Note the horizontal striped 'apron' material worn over their skirts - that signified they were married. 

The man was turning a Tibetan prayer wheel in his hand, a common practice for people making a pilgrimage while visiting monasteries. 

Before October 1950, the time of the invasion of Tibet by China, the village of Shol lay at the foot of Potala Palace but that has long since disappeared. It was replaced by a Tiananmen Square-like area under constant guard to protect against civil unrest and vandalism.

This was our first view of the magnificent Potala Palace and why Steven has been hankering to visit Tibet for decades! The palace is Lhasa's most important landmark and the home to every Dalai Lama from the 5th to the 14th, the current one although he has been in exile in India since 1959. Potala is considered one of the great wonders of world architecture and a fortress-like structure of immense proportions with 1,000 rooms. For Steven, I'm sure it must have been a magical moment standing in front of the Potala at long last and the sight was one we'd both remember for years to come. 

A guide wasn't optional at Potala - the de facto Chinese government required all tourists to be accompanied by a guide there and the other sights we'd be visiting in Lhasa. The travel agency we'd worked with had arranged time-specific permits far in advance for our visits.

Potala, also known as Red Hill, was the location of King Songsten Gampo's palace during the mid-17th century, well before the present-day Potala. I hadn't realized before we planned to visit Tibet that Potala was made up of two palaces: the bottom Kharpo Podrang or White Palace was begun in 1645, and Marpo Podrang or the upper Red Palace was completed in 1694 after the death of the fifth Dalai Lama. The name Potala likely came from the Tibetan name for Chenresig which means 'pure land' or paradise, also known as Potala.

Since its construction, Potala has been the home of each successive Dalai Lama but construction of Norbulingka, the summer place also in Lhasa in the late 18th century has resulted in Potala only being the religious leader's winter home. Potala was effectively a self-contained world as it also was the seat of the Tibetan government and housed chapels, schools, jails, and tombs for the Dalai Lamas. During the popular uprising of 1959 against the Chinese, Potala was shelled but not severely damaged. The Chinese Premier, Zhou Enlai, spared the palace during the Cultural Revolution and reportedly sent his own troops to guard it. Potala was reopened to the public in 1980 and the US government paid for renovations in 1995, a year after it was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. 

While walking toward the palace, Migma talked about his family. His 13-year-old son is in his last year of primary school which starts at 7am and goes until 9:30pm five days a week - yes, a staggering 14 plus hours a day of schooling. He'll then attend three years of middle school which only goes from 8am until 6pm. I was so nonplussed I didn't think to ask about secondary and post-secondary schooling. 

Migma explained that since the Dalai Lama's self-exile to India, only monks live in the palace and added that the Red Palace is designated for spiritual activities. The palace has to be painted once a year. As there are few windows in the palace, the slits are used for ventilation. 

Seeing the magnificent yet daunting views, Migm encouragingly said we'd only be climbing 200 plus meters, just 650 feet, and that we could do it. Steven and I weren't so confident because of the elevation gain.

Migma, our wonderful guide:

Access to the place was via two steep ramps and a huge number of stairs. This has become my desktop picture!

It was gratifying to see we weren't the only ones requiring oxygen after we were left wheezing in the oxygen-depleted air!

Approaching the main entrance and eyeing guardians painted over 300 years ago was my last chance to take pictures for a good while. I think you might realize by now how much I chafed with those restrictions as my camera has become an extra appendage! These walls were two meters thick but others in the place were an astounding six meters thick.

After ogling at gilded Buddhas, towering tombs, serene chapels, and religious images, popping out into the fresh air was a welcome relief even if we were greeted with a sign in the distance that said, "Long Live the Republic of China."

Deyang Shar was the White Palace's external courtyard and where the Dalai Lama stood to greet his people. Since the 14th Dalai Lama was in exile, the middle part of the courtyard was blocked off. Migma stated that it was critical we only ascend the stairs to the white building on the left and descend on the right. If people have photos of the Dalai Lama, Migma said they could be imprisoned - such was the state of the relationship between Tibet and China. 

Also known as the Eastern Courtyard, the more than 1300-square-meter Deyang Shar is the largest courtyard at Potala. Year-end activities, religious dance, and Tibetan operas were featured in the open space. The courtyard's horsehide drums were the timepiece for Potala. The square contained the Monk Officials' Training School and common houses. 

A view of the square from above: 

Migma showed us the Assembly Hall where the 13th and 14th Dalai Lamas met guests but only until 1959 by the 14th Dalai Lama when he was forced to go into exile. We were part of a long line of visitors snaking through narrow hallways as we walked through the prayer room, living room, and study that were all part of the White Palace. I hadn't realized how much I rely on photos to remember our visits to religious edifices, museums, or any place as, unfortunately, I recall little from our tour except the sheer magnificence of the complex and, of course, its religious significance for Tibetans and Tibetan Buddhists the world over. 

Lhasa in the valley far below with Sera Monastery which we'd visit the next day in the background:

The trek down the seemingly endless steps was far, far quicker than the slow ascent had been!

Looking back:

Still a long way to go before reaching the bottom:

I wish I had thought of taking a video of this pilgrim as he fell to the ground, lay prostrate, and pulled himself forward on the street as it was a scene that was to repeat itself time and time again in Lhasa. 

We hadn't spotted any graffiti or murals yet in Lhasa but this building was awfully attractive on one of the main streets. 

Steven with the Golden Yak in Barkhor Square in the heart of Lhasa and just a hop, skip, and a jump from our hotel. The plaza has been the focus on several occasions of violent political protests against the Chinese who control the city and the semi-autonomous region. As a result, Barkhor is now surrounded by metal detectors, riot squad vehicles, rooftop surveillance, and fire extinguisher teams to prevent self-immolation by monks or pilgrims. It was hard not to feel we were in a state of occupation or siege even among the gorgeous skies, inviting shops, and many tourists like ourselves. 

Steven and I at least had the easy option to leave in two days whereas the native Tibetans, who were vastly outnumbered by the Han Chinese, were not afforded the freedom to come and go as they pleased. 

After lunch on Barkhor Square, Migma took us to The Jokhang, the most revered religious building in Tibet, which was also on the square. I think the temple's presence also accounted for the heavy security in the square. As at Potala, Migma needed to present our passports with their visas, our Tibet permits, and his agency's paperwork for us to gain entrance to Jokhang before going through more metal detectors, etc. 

Jokhang's courtyard was surrounded by stores galore. It immediately reminded me of our visits to temples and shrines in Japan where it felt like we had to run a gauntlet of shops before entering the place of worship. 

The temple's main building was just four floors high, the maximum height of all buildings in Lhasa's center to allow Jokhang's golden roof to be seen by everyone from the roofs of all other buildings in the Old Town that bordered the temple. Jokhang is recognized as a World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO.

Jokhang is estimated to have been constructed from 639 to 647 at the behest of King Songsten Gampo who also was responsible for Potala Palace. He married Chinese Princess Wencheng and Nepalese Princess Bhrikuti to ally with neighboring countries. Both of them arrived in Tibet with holy statues and sacred objects. The king initiated the construction of the Jokhang to house a statue of Jowo Mekyo Dorje, a representation of eight-year-old Shakyamuni, brought to Tibet as part of the dowry of his Nepali wife. That was why the temple faced West, where Nepal is located.

At the same time, the Ramoche Temple was constructed to house another important Buddha statue, Jowo Sakyamuni, representing Shakyamuni at the age of twelve, brought to Tibet by the king’s Chinese wife. Ramoche Temple faced East in the direction of China.

It was heartbreaking seeing young children prostrating themselves and then asking for handouts.

We had to undergo the same security protocols again before entering the religious sanctum as the prior security was just to enter the square where the temple was located. Touring Tibet is definitely NOT for the faint of heart!

Migma claimed that many pilgrims or people of faith remain all day doing prostrations. 

Just inside the entrance were statues of the Four Heavenly Kings ...

and then the dukhang or Main Assembly Hall, a paved courtyard open to the elements that was used by monks for religious activities. Other nearby monasteries also used the courtyard to give exams to prospective monks. Note the temple's gold roof.

Underneath the overhang were images depicting Buddha's life stories.

We passed through different living rooms as each temple in Tibet would have a living room specifically set aside for the Dalai Lama for them to stay when they traveled throughout the country - oops, region. 

Once again, we weren't allowed to take any interior pictures of the countless chapels packed with people paying reverence to the Buddhas.

The striking gold roof glistened in the afternoon sun.

The profusion of flowers overlooking the courtyard was spectacular. 

That night Steven and I wandered around the shops in Barkhor Square and beyond. Fortunately, we were able to walk unencumbered.

Cans of oxygen were available in most stores.

On the door was a white scarf or katak, a ceremonial scarf in Tibetan Buddhism symbolizing purity, compassion, and goodwill. I read that it's used to express respect and gratitude and is often presented to welcome someone, or as a sign of respect to a deity when visiting a temple.

Years ago Steven and I were in Bangkok where I remember being gobsmacked by the overwhelming number of gold jewelry shops selling eye-popping bracelets, necklaces, rings, etc. It was the same case in Amman and Abu Dhabi. I'd never have thought that Lhasa of all places would have been in the same boat as those world-class cities, however. I looked at a few bracelets but the prices for the 24k gold pieces made our eyes water.

Shots of lovely Lhasa beyond Barkhor Square: 

An alley showed images of monks and Potala Palace.

We found the city's traditional architecture quite alluring.

After seeing so many Tibetan women wearing the horizontal-striped skirt cover, I looked at some fabric stores where they sold the same style of fabric. I was hoping to buy some for a table runner, not that we don't have enough table runners from other far-flung corners of the globe!

Barkhor Square at night looked magical unless one thought about the omnipresent security situation. 

Next post: Lhasa's Muslim Quarter & Sera Monastery, a monastery like no other!

Posted on August 22nd, 2024 in our peaceful corner of the world so far away from Lhasa and the tensions there. Please take care of yourself and your loved ones and make sure to count your lucky stars if you live in peace.