9/22/24: Tyrrhenian Towns of Termini Immerse, Caccamo & Collesano

After returning to Palermo's airport to pick up a rental car for the next two weeks to explore most of Sicily, Steven and I drove along SS 213, the coastal road along the Tyrrhenian Coast toward Termini Immerse. Just outside the town were the ruins of an ancient Norman tower.      

Nearby was the monumental Ponte San Leonardo, a grandiose architectural work built in 1721 under the reign of Charles VI of Habsburg. For over two centuries, it was the main connection with Termini Immerse. At the top of the arch was a stone sculpture representing a sleeping figure accompanied by the inscription Secura quiete or "safety and tranquility for the traveler who crosses it."

Termini Immerse, the last town in the province of Palermo before entering the province of Messina, is an important commercial port and position along the coast and connects Sicily to mainland Italy with regular ferries to the port of Civitavecchia near Rome. Termini's name comes from its natural spring waters or terme which have drawn visitors to the region since Roman times. The town was also critical in the export of wheat and other grains during Roman times.

Marvelous panoramic views from the town's Belvedere:

Termini's main cathedral, the Duomo di San Nicolo di Bari, was dedicated to St. Nicholas, and like most Sicilian churches, was filled with precious artworks. Its main chapel and altar date to the 17th century and were filled with precious inlaid colored marble.

Located directly in front of the Duomo was the Baldasaarre Romano City Museum, known for its collection of ancient Greek and Roman art as well as an impressive collection of artifacts collected from the Himera archaeological area. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to appreciate those or its vast collection of works by Sicilian artists, some Flemish works, and even a Byzantine triptych. 

The Grand Hotel delle Terme was a 19th-century thermal complex offering an outdoor pool and a gym until it closed in 2016.

Via Roma was a monumental staircase built at the end of the 19th century, which connected the lower part of the town with the higher part. The stairway was formed by steps arranged in a triple row, of which the central one, was wider and offset compared to the others. 

Back in the car, we drove toward the Church of Maria Santissima Annunziata in the Rocchecelle neighborhood. Dating to the early 17th century, it was built over the remains of a previous medieval church. The outside was dominated by a beautiful blue majolica dome that prevailed over the urban landscape. Sadly, the church was closed. 

The sweet mural paid homage to Nonna or Granny.

In the hope of seeing the ruins of the Cornelius Roman Aqueduct which brought water to Termini Immerse from the nearby town of Brucato, we drove along narrow, pot-filled, hilly roads littered with bags and bags of trash people had tossed out.

We gave up the hunt and headed south and inland to Caccamo 11 km away. 

The area surrounding Caccamo was just glorious with views of  Caccaomo Lake and the Rosemarine Dam, both parts of Madonie Regional Park.

Caccamo is a stunning medieval mountain town oozing with character and charm. Walking through it was like taking a stroll through a period drama film set!

Its highlight was Castello di Caccamo, one of the most well-preserved Norman castles in all of Italy with stonework dating to the 12th century. As it was closed when we arrived, we delighted in wandering through the town first.

Located on the main square in the heart of Caccamo was Chiesa dell'Oratorio, one of several splendid Baroque monuments in the city's center. However, it was also closed.

We enjoyed a view of the city's rooftops from the church.

Holding just as much artwork as the town's main cathedral was Chiesa dell'Annunziata dating from the 1700s. We'd have loved to have viewed the rooftop frescoes and stunning wall decoration by the Sicilian master Giacomo Serpotta as we'd seen his work in Palermo's Oratorio the previous day. But, alas it was also closed.

In about just one block were four churches, virtually on top of each other! Not only were they all closed, but none had names listed which was frustrating. The description of the churches and their locations didn't match their location on Google Maps which was not only disconcerting but a waste of time.

A magnificent view over Cacammo's stony terraces: 

Finally, walking up the path to the castle, the biggest in Sicily, was like taking a step back to the Middle Ages. 

The Castle Chapel: 

Once again, the views of the Rosamarine Valley were beyond spectacular.

A moat and drawbridge led to the castle's third entrance.

Caccamo's coat of arms was represented by the head of a horse and a Triscelon.

The plaque commemorated the discovery of seven jars full of oil for medicinal purposes. 

The Conspiracy Hall was where a group of barons under the leadership of Matteo Bonello conspired against King William I known as Malo or Bad. When the revolt failed, Bonello was captured and put to death in this room.

The bedroom furnishings were from the 18th century.

Views from the appropriately named Good View Terrace:

The Fireplace Room:

I was struck by its 17th-century wooden coffered ceiling adorned with original period paintings.

At the entrance to the prisons was a clay jar used for the preparation of boiling pitch that could be thrown at enemy besiegers. The most important cell could hold six prisoners; the others for one prisoner measured just one meter by one meter. All cells contained masonry seats. Writings on the walls gave us a sense of the prisoners' frame of mind: "With art and deception you can live half a year, by deception and art the second half of the year."

We'd hoped to eat at the Castellana Restaurant as it was located in the castle's old grain stores just below the castle but they weren't serving food when we inquired.

We hung around Cacammo until 4:30 as the 15th-century Duomo was supposed to open by then but never did. We'd have liked to have seen the church filled with artwork from many Sicilian Renaissance masters but were out of luck. Instead, we drove onto Collesano located deep in the Madonie mountains.

Collesano with its ancient winding streets was first settled by Arab conquerors in the 10th century, It became an important feudal town between the Madonie mountains and the Roccella River.

The town was also famous for its role in the Targa Florio, a car race that began in 1906 and wove its way yearly through the picturesque towns and villages of the Madonie Mountains. The race ran without interruption except during both world wars until it was stopped in 1977 when a driver crashed into the crowd, causing two fatalities as there were no barriers.

At the Museo Targa Florio, we learned the same route is used now for the annual Italian Rally Championship. The race was founded by car enthusiast and businessman Vincenzo Florio who wanted to run a car race near his hometown of Palermo.

If you're a car racing buff. the museum would be your cup of tea. Neither of us is but it was still intriguing to learn about the Grande, the race that ran for 148 km and had 2,000 corners compared to the Piccolo which was half that long and only wound its way through five villages. The Targa Florio was one of Europe's most important and revered races. The annual race days became something of a national holiday, with villagers setting up chairs next to the roadside to enjoy a martini as the cars raced by!

Palermo local and school teacher, Nino Vaccarella, won the race three times, in 1965, 1971, and 1975, the latter two times driving for Alfa Romeo. He also competed in Formula One races at Le Mans. 

Vaccarella during a lunch break:

Turin native Felice Nazzaro was shown in a photo from the 1907 Targa Florio driving his Fiat through Petralia Sottana!

The photo showed a driver racing his Ferrari through the streets of Collessano but didn't specify the year.

Rosadele Facetto, one of the early female Targa Florio drivers, drove a Lancia HF.

Margot Einsiedei driving her Bugatti T37 in 1928 finished 12th.

I, likely more than Steven, really enjoyed touring the museum and was especially thankful it was still open when we arrived at 6:30 on a Sunday night. Even though I’m not a racing car fan, I’d still pay a pretty penny to attend a race like the Targa Florio!  

We checked out several restaurants for dinner but none opened until 8 so we gave up and headed to our place in the hills, thankful we at least had some snacks with us that would tide us over.

In the end, Steven was very thankful we hadn't found anything open as he wasn't wild about driving the hilly and rocky lanes far above Collessano in the dark! To top it off, there was no one at the proverbial inn when we arrived  - a disappointing end to what had otherwise been a fun first day exploring the island with a car.

Next post: The mountain towns of Polizzi Generosa and Castebuono.

Posted on November 16th, 2024 from La Grange, outside of Chicago, where we're visiting our daughter, Natalie, her husband Adam, and their daughters for the weekend. What a joy finally being around Clara, about 4 and a half, and Violet, who will be 2 in January again! Please make sure to take care of yourself and your loved ones as life can change in an instant.