10/5/24: Vittoriosa's Atmospheric Alleys & Doorknockers

The historic towns of Senglea, Vittoriosa (formerly Birgu), and Cospicua comprised the Three Cities surrounding Valletta and played a significant role in defending Malta, particularly during the Great Siege of 1565. Perched high upon a bastion on the southern tip of Senglea overlooking the glorious Grand Harbor was the delightful Gardjola Gardens. Built on a grid pattern in 1551, under the command of Grand Master Sengle, the gardens are home to one of Malta’s oldest fortifications, a magnificent watchtower built to warn hostile forces entering the Grand Harbor.

Senglea's vedette, or watchtower, was decorated with eyes and ears to symbolize watchfulness.

Yachts, not cruise ships, filled the harbor!

Throughout our week-long visit to Malta, Steven and I remained entranced by the stunning multi-colored balconies.

Connecting Senglea to Vittoriosa was Porta delle Bombe, meaning Bombs' Gate, originally called Porta dei Cannoni, meaning Cannons Gate. The ornamental arched gate in Floriana was built in 1721 as part of the Floriana Lines, a line of defensive fortifications surrounding the capital city of Valletta. The gate was enlarged with the construction of a second archway in 1868, and after the ramparts on either side of the gate were demolished, it looked like a triumphal arch. 

On the banks of the Grand Harbor opposite Valletta was Birgu, now called Vittoriosa, the most historic of the Three Cities. The medieval harbor town was the Knights' first base in Malta in 1530. It was from here that the Knights and the Maltese held out against the besieging Turks in the Great Siege of 1565. After it was abandoned for Valletta in 1571, Birgu became a quiet backwater until the arrival of the British Royal Navy, which was based here throughout the 19th century and during WW II. The last troops departed in 1979.

Our walking tour of Vittoriosa began at the Collegiate Parish Church of Saint Lawrence, which was erected between 1681 and 1697 to replace the 11th-century Norman church. It had served as the Conventual Church of the Order of the Knights of St. John after the Order settled in Birgu on their arrival in Malta in 1530. After the Order was transferred to St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, the church became the seat of the Papal Delegates, also known as the Inquisitors. 

St. Lawrence, the patron saint of Vittoriosa and head of the seven deacons of the early Roman Church, was the most celebrated martyr of Rome. Among his primary missions was assistance to the poor, crippled, and needy. When Roman Emperor Valerian ordered the church treasures to be brought to him, St. Lawrence presented him with a group of beggars, pointing out that these were the real church treasures. Valerian became so incensed that St. Lawrence was roasted alive in 258 AD. 

The crucifix above the altar in the Chapel of the Holy Crucifix was brought from Crete in 1657 during the Cretan war with the Ottomans and donat Qazaz ed to the church by a Greek merchant.

Below the altar table were relics of St. Lucidus placed there in 1779.

After the original loft suffered great damage in World War II, this exquisite organ loft designed by an Italian firm was installed in 1952.

Pictured in the dome were scenes from the Great Siege.

This handsome statue of St. Lawrence is paraded shoulder-high through the streets of Vittoriosa on his feast day each August 10th. 

On the lower level was the Crypt of the Confraternity of St. Joseph. 

Adjacent to the church was the Oratory of St. Joseph, the meeting place of one of the oldest confraternities or guilds on the island. Here, the carpenters and other woodworkers gathered to pray. Grand Master La Vallette left his hat and sword as a thanksgiving for the island's victory against the Turks in 1565.

During the Siege's worst days, la Vallette and his Councillors prayed to Our Lady of Damascus in this Sanctuary for Malta's deliverance from the Ottomans. He later bestowed his battle sword and hat to Our Lady in the Sanctuary as a sign of thanksgiving. To mark Malta's grand victory over the Turks, la Vallette renamed the city of Birgu, Vittoriosa, the city of victory.

Am I the only one to think it was odd that the Sanctuary contained a canon ball used by the Turks during the Great Siege?

What a delightful time we had wandering along Vittoriosa's winding and narrow streets after the hubbub of Valletta the day before. There was nary a soul in the atmospheric maze of alleys, collectively known as Il Collachio.

Not that we would have wanted to, but it would have been difficult to get lost wandering aimlessly around Vittoriosa as it was just 800m long and 400m wide at its widest!

Also greatly adding to Vittoriosa's appeal was the variety of charming doorknockers.

I don't remember seeing a sign previously from a local council or government publicly expressing "its sincere thanks and appreciation to the residents of this street ... for its embellishments with potted plants near their residences."

The Auberge d'Angleterre was among the first auberges built by the Knights in the 16th century. An auberge was once an inn providing housing, rest, and a stop for members of the Order of St. John. Each of the Knights' langues or language groups had their own auberge. Hence, this auberge had been for the English Knights, but it was now used as a public library.

Nearby was the 13th-century Norman House, built with a twin-arched window, a slender central pillar, and a zigzag decoration in a style called Siculo-Norman on the first floor (the second floor for North Americans).

As I wrote in the first Valletta post, when La Vallette and the Knights of St. John planned the city, they issued regulations called capitoli that required statues or niches in all corners.   

Saint Lawrence Band Club occupied this lovely building in Vittoriosa's main square. The first band in Vittoriosa was established in 1858 and baptized La Vittoriosa in 1863. However, after mass emigration between 1872 and 1882, there were years of disruption. The following year, several musicians formed a new musical association, L'Unione, which participated in village feasts and events organized by the British Navy. After obtaining the patronage of the HRH Duke of Edinburgh in 1891, the band became known as the Duke of Edinburgh Band Club during the British times. Bandsmen were able to wear naval officers' uniforms, which was considered a privilege. The band welcomed Prince Alfred on board the HMS Surprise in the Grand Harbor in 1892.

Nowadays, each parish in Malta has a band that provides music for annual feasts. 

Vittoriosa’s Sacra Infermeria was the first hospital built by the Knights of St. John upon their arrival in Malta before they built the one in Valletta. The present Church of Saint Scholastica and Monastery of the Benedictine Nuns was built in 1679 to replace an older one. 

The stepped ramp descending into a trench in front of the infermeria led to the Bighi Sally Port, where wounded were brought by boat to the infirmary under the cover of darkness during the Great Siege

I can't imagine a better way to end this post than by leaving you with these views of Valletta's idyllic Grand Harbor, which wowed us from Bighi Sally Port.

Next post: Vittoriosa's Inquisitor's Palace.

Posted on February 28th, 2025, from our home in Denver as we watched with profound concern as yet more political norms unraveled. Wishing you and your loved ones peace and goodwill in these turbulent times.