10/5/24: Malta's Southeast Coastal Delights!

After first exploring the Inquisitor's Palace in Vittorosia, Steven and I drove southeast of Malta's capital city of Valletta toward the charming town of Marsaskala, located near the head of a long, narrow bay. Formerly a Sicilian fishing village, it has become a popular residential area and seaside resort. 

We enjoyed a 20-minute ramble along the stone cliffs to catch a great view of its main attraction, the Munxar Window, a stunning natural limestone arch. 

At the southern end of nearby Marsaxlokk Bay was Delimara Point and its lighthouse, which dates to 1854. It was closed while undergoing restoration.

Sadly, much of the area was blighted by a large power station.

We hadn't realized that Malta produced its own wine!

More adventurous swimmers than we followed the narrow path from the lighthouse to access the beach at St. Peter's Pool, a popular natural swimming spot in the bay.

Ahead was the enchanting fishing village of Marsaxlokk, located at the head of the bay of the same name. Described as "resolutely remaining a slice of Maltese life, despite the encroachment of industry," the town is Malta's second natural harbor. The Turkish fleet moored in the bay during the Great Siege of 1565, Napoleon's army landed here during the French invasion of 1798, and Britain's Imperial Airways used the bay's calm waters as a staging post for its huge flying boats in the 1930s.

Crowding the harbor was a photogenic fleet of brightly colored luzzu, or fishing boats, which have become one of Malta's national symbols. About seventy percent of Malta's fishing fleet makes Marsaxlokk their home. The boats, painted boldly in blue, red, and yellow, were decorated with the watchful Eyes of Osiris on their bows to ward off evil spirits. The luzzu were double-ended fishing boats, which means it was pointed at both ends. The boats are said to owe their design to the ancient Phoenicians, who first landed in Malta around 800 BC.

Other boats included a kajjik, whose square transom meant it was pointed at only one end, and a dghasja, a smaller and racier-looking boat with a very high stem and stern posts, so it looked like a Maltese gondola.

Just in from the harbor was the town's main square and the Church of Our Lady of Pompeii. I would have loved to see its interior as it had two clocks, one painted and permanently set a few moments before the witching hour of midnight to ward off evil spirits!

Picturesque, old, low-rise homes bordered the waterfront. 

The town was also home to St. Lucian's Tower, a squat little fortress that guarded the headland beyond Marsaxlokk. The Knights built the tower in 1610 as part of their coastal defenses.

We then drove to Ghar Dalam Cave and Museum, located in Birzebbuga, a former fishing village on the western shore of Marsaxlokk Bay. Ghar Dalam, or 'cave of darkness,' has yielded a treasure trove of fossil bones in its 500,000-year-old depths.

While Steven relaxed outside, I walked through the museum. There, I learned that while Malta never had an Ice Age, unlike Europe, its effects were still considerable on the Maltese islands. They caused changes in Climate: Torrential rains and floods during their 'Rain Age' swept away animals and excavated valleys; Sea Levels: An enormous fall in the sea level resulted in the exposure of submarine banks between Sicily and Malta; Local fauna: Elephants, bears, hippopotami, wolves, and others escaped the rigorous climates in Europe and migrated southward, ultimately reaching Malta; and Animal Size: To ensure survival, these animals underwent progressive adaptations and size changes.

When these two bulky human molars, also known as bull teeth, were discovered in 1918, they made history and put Ghar Dalam on the map. They were evidence of the first human habitation on Malta, from 7400 years ago!

Three species of hippopotamus roamed Malta during the Pleistocene Period, which occurred about 180,000-130,000 years ago. The displays showed some of their toe bones and molars.

Thousands upon thousands of other ancient animal bones and teeth were also on display!

The remains of a relatively large Roman villa, known as a villa agraria, were visible outside the museum on the way to the cave. Part of a stairway indicated it had been a two-story building built around a central courtyard. The structure had been an agricultural building focused on the production of olive oil because of the large anchor weight used to hold an olive oil press in place, 

Up until 1912, the cave was used as a cattle, sheep, and goat pen. This triangular-shaped rock with a perforation at the top was used to tether animals while grazing outside the cave.

During WW II, the British Royal Air Force used Ghar Dalam to store aviation fuel for the planes stationed at the nearby aerodromes. The precious fuel was protected by surrounding the cave with barbed wire, some of which was still visible.

A walkway led 50 meters into the cavern, where the lowest layers, contained remains belonging to dwarf elephants, hippopotamuses, micro-animals, and birds. As the animals were all European-type, it suggested that Malta was once joined to Italy, not northern Africa.

The first hippopotamus layer:

Thank goodness there were information panels in the cave. One stated that this was a stratigraphic column that showed the sequence of cave deposits. 

This part of the cave contained bones of deer, domestic animals, and other types of hippopotamuses.

The initials GD on the wall stood for Giuseppe Despott, the museum's first curator of natural history from 1922 to 1933. His excavations unearthed the two bull teeth, which were then believed to belong to a Neanderthal man. 

The stalagmite columns protruding from the column marked periods of dry climatic conditions. 

Deeper in the cave was another hippopotamus layer. 

There was a significant amount of graffiti on the cave walls, some dating to the early 20th century, commemorating the beginning or end of an excavation. In addition, soldiers on duty during the War scribbled their names on the walls.

I was glad I explored the cave, but I didn't find it riveting. If you're in the area and have plenty of time, stop by, but don't expect to be wowed unless you're a serious spelunker!

Across from the cave were old fuel depositories used after the war. After fuel was piped from the harbor, they were no longer needed. 

On the coast road from Birzebbuga to Marsaxlokk was the "Seasick Summit Monument,” otherwise known as the Cold War Memorial. In early December 1989, after two days of talks, Soviet Premier Mikhail Gorbachev and US President George W. Bush declared an end to the Cold War on board a cruiser in Marsaxlokk Bay. Unfortunately, the summit coincided with some of the worst storms to ever hit the Maltese coastline, and the flotilla anchored in the bay was badly damaged. As a result, the press dubbed the meeting the Seasickness Summit!

From the monument, we had a glorious view of St. Lucian's Tower across St. George's Bay.

Another view was of the oldest oil depot in Malta, which Shell opened in 1914. In 1921, a large pontoon was built to allow ships to moor alongside for the disembarkation of oil products. 

That night, back 'home' in Senglea, Steven and I devoured a lovely meal and wine overlooking Valletta's Great Harbor, one of the most beautiful sights we've ever experienced!

Next post: The mysterious Hal Saflieni underground burial complex and the Tarxien Temple.

Posted on March 6th, 2025, from sunny Denver as we await another spring snowstorm, lucky us! Please take great care of yourself and your loved ones during these unsettling times, and sow kindness as far as you can.