5/28/25: Homeward Bound via Espanola, Santuario de Chimayo, & High Road to Taos Scenic Byway

After spending about three weeks doing a circular tour around most of "enchanting" New Mexico, it was time to head home to Denver. You may recall that Steven and I spent our first night in Española, and we wanted to return there to visit one of the last historic trading posts and a listed landmark that was established in 1917, as it had been closed previously. 

Fortunately, the Chimayó Trading Post was open this time, so we were able to peruse the extensive collection of New Mexico indigenous pottery, weavings, and other treasures in the shop, which had been opened by the weaver's grandparents. I wonder if there'll be another generation to follow in his footsteps.

We'd also missed seeing the village of Santa Cruz, the second formal municipality in the state. It was founded in 1695 by Governor Diego de Vargas to protect the Spanish frontier north of Santa Fe. Santa Cruz was a vital stop on the El Camino Real between Santa Fe and Taos. The sizeable Santa Cruz de la Cañada Church was constructed in 1733. Too bad it was closed because I read that its altar screen was particularly colorful and was attributed to the Laguna Santero.

I was amazed to learn in Santa Cruz that during the Colonial period in New Mexico, which lasted from 1598 to 1821, Spanish law granted women significant legal rights. Women conducted land deals, purchased property and livestock, operated businesses, retained their surnames, and wrote wills independently of their husbands. They also offered testimony in legal cases and addressed legal matters in court. Additionally, a daughter received a portion of the estate equal to that of her male siblings under the inheritance laws. What a shame it took the rest of the country hundreds of years to also recognize the importance of women's rights.

East of Española was the village of Chimayó, which was founded in the 18th century, shortly after the Spanish reconquest of New Mexico. Centuries before the arrival of the Spanish, however, indigenous Americans had occupied the Chimayó valley. The village has been a center of the Spanish weaving tradition for over 250 years.

Since we began planning our New Mexico road trip, Steven wanted to ensure that we set aside time to visit El Santuario de Chimayó, an internationally renowned Roman Catholic pilgrimage site, not because he's Catholic, but because it's known for its healing dirt. Since his back surgery in February, his recovery hasn't proceeded as he'd hoped, and collecting some of the dirt was important to him. 

After a crucifix was found in Chimayó, Don Bernardo Abeyta requested and received permission from the Bishop of Durango in Mexico to build a church to house the crucifix. Don Sebastian Alvarez, pastor of the Santa Cruz de la Cañada Church, also wrote to the bishop, explaining that miracles had begun to occur in Chimayó and that the new church would be beneficial for the local families. Abeyta and other residents of Chimayó completed the construction of an adobe chapel honoring Nuestro Señor de Esquipulas in 1816.

The chapel remained in the Abeyta family until 1929, when it was given to the Archdiocese of Santa Fe. Its mud-plastered walls were protected with a metal gable roof in 1930 to prevent deterioration. The chapel, noted for its six-foot crucifix and the healing properties attributed to its soil, was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970. Nineteenth-century santeros created the unique religious folk art featured in the altar screens. Church policy, unfortunately, forbade photography in both its museum and chapel.

Pilgrims have come to El Santuario since 1810, drawn by the healings associated with the dirt pit where the crucifix was found. Although a sign stated that there was no documentation about the origins of the crucifix of the Lord of Esquipulas of Chimayó, it was clear that the devotion to Christ of Esquipulas has its roots in Santiago de Esquipulas, Guatemala. The crucifix found in Chimayó by Abeyta likely originated in Mexico as part of an expedition. 

After Abeyta discovered the crucifix in the well of dirt inside the building below in 1810, the site was converted into a place of prayer. People seeking healing for their physical, emotional, and spiritual suffering began visiting. Since then, many pilgrims and visitors have testified to finding consolation and peace within the adobe walls of the Santuario.

The statue was of Fr. Casimiro Roca, El Santuario's first pastor, known as the Pilgrims' Priest, who welcomed pilgrims to El Santuario for 40 years and served the communities of northern New Mexico for over 60 years.  

Before visiting, I hadn't realized how extensive El Santuario's property was.

One of the magnificent views along the spectacular High Road to Taos Scenic Byway en route to Rancho de Taos:

As we drove through Las Trampas, we unfortunately caught only a glimpse of the Church of Santo Tomás del Río de Las Trampas, a historic church built between 1760 and 1776. It is described as one of the least-altered examples of a Spanish Colonial Pueblo mission church. Perhaps, we can see it next year when we return to New Mexico. 

The Church of San Francisco de Asis has always been the heart of the picturesque village of Ranchos de Taos. Built of sun-dried mud, straw bricks, and local pine timber, it was one of the original structures still standing in Taos and the state. Visitors were reminded that the church wasn't a museum, but an active place of worship, which served as a "monument to the vibrant faith, hope, and charity of past and present Catholic generations whose love of God and devotion to their patron, St Francis, remains strong and intact."

As renowned as El Santuario is, I found far more peace and serenity sitting in such quiet surroundings at San Francisco. I was drawn to its exquisite and colorful religious art, which stood in stark contrast to the far more commercialized atmosphere I experienced at Chimayó. 

Also in Ranchos de Taos was the Jesus Nazareno Cemetery, where actor Dennis Hopper was buried in a small, unassuming cemetery facing Taos Mountain. 

His grave was adorned with bandanas, Mardi Gras beads, and other items that reflected his artistic spirit and his role in Easy Rider. 

Scenes outside Taos:

While Steven took a quick nap in the car, I wandered around the Bareiss Gallery's outdoor gallery to admire the collection of contemporary art and large-scale sculptures. The owner was a former international banker who worked in Europe and New York before moving to Taos in 1977. It seemed he had found his calling in the wilds of northern New Mexico!

After driving the almost deserted Old Spanish Trail for nearly an hour, we reached the Colorado border. We said to each other half-jokingly, how long will it be before we see the first pot shop, since Colorado was the first state to legalize marijuana?!

We weren't wrong, as just 15 minutes across the state line, the first store in San Luis was a dispensary! Established in 1851, San Luis was also Colorado's oldest town.

Heading home on the Highway of Legends Scenic Byway through the Sangre de Cristo and Cuchara mountain ranges, some of Colorado's most famous, reminded us of how lucky we are to live in Colorful Colorado. Our road trip through a vast swath of New Mexico had been everything we hoped for and more, and though I've already got a list of places to visit again soon in the Land of Enchantment, there is nothing like home.

Steven and I just laughed when we saw the 'Greenland' sign, as we knew then we'd be heading to the 'other' Greenland across the pond soon! Before seeing the sign, we had no idea that there was a place called Greenland located less than an hour from our home.

Photo courtesy of the Great Outdoors Colorado website, which describes Greenland as "the big, green open space" between Denver and Colorado Springs to the south.

Next Post: Iceland, Here We Come!

Posted on July 15th, 2025, after spending three full days in and around Reykjavik, Iceland. Since the city was our first stop on our first international trip together in 2013, Steven and I have enjoyed exploring both old and new sights this time around. Whether you are at home or, like us, on the road discovering new adventures, please take care of yourself and your loved ones.