7/21/25: Icelandic Yule Lads & Geothermal Wonders at Marvelous Mývatn!

Steven and I arrived too late the night before at Hótel Rauðaskriða, after our exciting whale watching tour in nearby Húsavík, to take advantage of the personal hot tubs. The hotel's hot water originated from a geothermal area called Hveravellir, meaning "hot spring field," located approximately 20 km away. Their tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers were grown in greenhouses heated by hot water from the sme natural springs. As we'd learned on our first day in Reykjavik, geothermal water in Iceland is abundant because the entire island is volcanic. Most homes in Iceland are heated with geothermal energy from the earth, making the country one of the cleanest in terms of air quality, as it does not use coal or oil for heating. However, the water had a distinctive odor from the small amounts of sulfur, but,once it was boiled for tea, I barely detected it.

The hotel had an unusual "comments book" from previous guests!

We headed south from the hotel to the Goðafoss Waterfall, meaning Waterfall of the Gods, a horseshoe-shaped waterfall located on the Skjálfandafljót River. One legend suggests that the name represents the country's conversion to Christianity in the year 1000 AD. Scholars believe that the waterfall was named after crags on the river's east bank that looked like pagan idols or goð.

Though only 40 feet high, its shape and 100-yard width reminded me of Niagara Falls.

Seeing these magnificent waterfalls was a marvelous way to start the day! Luckily, we never grew tired of admiring any of Iceland's waterfalls we saw, even though we stopped at many of them on our two-week trip around the country.

The baby-soft kalanchoe plants were plentiful near the falls.

En route to Mývatn, we passed an unusual-shaped building that I just discovered was the China-Iceland Arctic Science Observatory, which was established in 2018. 

After climbing a small mountain pass, just 800 feet high, compared to our 14ers in Colorado, we drove along the Laxá River. The area gained notoriety in 1970, when almost two hundred locals blew up a controversial dam they opposed. Prosecution became impossible when over half of the people "confessed" to the crime and refused to disclose who was responsible.

Mývatn, literally meaning Midge Lake after the tiny gnats that thrive here, is one of the most impressive natural areas. The 14-square-mile lake is renowned for its rugged coastline, characterized by numerous bays and inlets. 

Approximately 2,300 years ago, the lake was significantly different from its current state. Then, lava flowed from the Lúdentarborgir Crater, formed molten lava ponds before flowing into the lake and causing explosions. Over time, vegetation covered the lava, creating the current environment. 

At the Mývatn Visitor Center, we learned that it wasn't uncommon to find up to 200,000 midge larvae per square meter on the lakebed. That would mean we could fit about 2,000 larvae in the palm of one hand! The midges' life cycle is quite the adventure: the adult lays eggs in the lake, which hatch into tiny larvae that swim to the bottom. Midges only feed during the larval stage, during which they undergo three transformations. After the larva transforms into a pupa, an air bubble at the front of the pupa lifts it to the surface, where the pupa metamorphoses into a fully formed adult midge, ready to fly.

The lake is known worldwide for its rich and distinct ecosystem. The lake's shallow depth allows sunlight to reach the bottom, creating optimal conditions for aquatic vegetation and fauna. In turn, it supports a rich diversity higher up the food chain. 

Mývatn was certainly a fitting name for the lake, as midges have been fundamental to the rich ecosystem in and around the lake, including the life of humans. Midge larvae and adults are the primary food source for most fish and bird species, promoting high fertility and biodiversity. Approximately 50 midge species and four black fly species inhabit the lake, feeding primarily on decaying organic matter. 

Mývatn is not just the name of the lake, but also refers to the entire area with sites scattered around the lake. 

 

At the lake's southwest corner was the tiny settlement of Skútustaðir, named after a renowned ancient hero called Viga-Skuta, the possessor of the deadly axe Fluga. There was the first of the lake's many striking volcanic sights. Walking the Crater Trail took us past grassy dimples, or pseudocraters, that were all that remained of what had once been giant bubbles in molten lava. After the water under the lava boiled into steam, it rose to the surface and popped. 

Knowing that Mývatn was supposed to be overrun with midges, we'd brought headnets like the woman on the left was wearing. However, although a few midges were annoying, there weren't enough to bother with the netting. I thanked my lucky stars that, at least, the midges, while annoying in significant numbers, don't bite.

Driving northeast along the lake, we reached Höfði, a rocky promontory with even more spectacular views of rock formations set against aqua-colored water. Seeing a marble bench made me think we were in a cemetery!

A high-tech credit card reader was required to access the public bathroom, which cost $2.50 per person!

As I've mentioned in previous posts, there are precious few forests anywhere in Iceland. That's why it was a treat walking along sheltered trails in the small Höfði peninsula, which had been reforested by a local couple over many years.

We'd first spotted masses of Norwegian Angelica on Viðey Island near Reykjavik. 

The flowering garden was a total surprise in the forest trails.

Thanks to Google, I learned the pretty orange flowers were the Rose of the Rockery.  

Though this was a field of dandelions and not buttercups, it was still beautiful. Icelanders don't usually get rid of dandelions because they believe anything flowering still gives pleasure.

Views from the highest point in the peninsula:

Just a few miles on was Dimmuborgir, which literally means Dark Castles, and was a fantasyland of striking lava formations. Given that we were in Iceland, it meant that the Icelandic Yule Lads or their Santa Clauses lived there! They are the 13 sons of vicious trolls that live in a big cave, with each one named after their interests or food preferences! Some of the amusing examples were Candle Beggar, Meat Hook, Sausage Swiper, Door Slammer, and Window Peeper. The Yule lads are rarely seen during the summer, as that's when they rest in their caves unless they show up for special occasions. December is the best time to meet them in Dimmuborgir, as that's when they start preparing for Christmas. 

Because Lake Mývatn is located at the intersection of the constantly moving American and Eurasian tectonic plates, the area is very volcanically active. Dimmuborgir's rocky formations were created approximately 2,300 years ago during a massive volcanic eruption, when lava burst out of a 12-km-long fissure, and the surrounding area was underwater.

One of the Yule Lads' favorite spots was the High Chair formed by two cave rocks. They like to place a sheepskin on the chair, so that either they or their guests can sit comfortably!

Dimmuborgir reminded us both of the Garden of the Gods, an equally spectacular red rock formation located south of Denver.

Church Rock:

Once we got away from the madding crowds at the entrance, we had the park almost to ourselves. Though it was given two out of a possible four stars, we didn't think it was quite that fantastic. Granted, the red and yellow hikes were decent, the rock formations were certainly intriguing, and the tale of the Yule Lads was amusing. We may have become too jaded, however.

Another two-star attraction rising just east of the lake was allotted by our guidebook to Hverfjall Crater. Described as a tephra volcano, it was composed of volcanic ash and small debris, created by an eruption about 2,900 years ago. The cone-shaped mountain was over a mile wide and 550 feet tall; the crater itself was a half-mile in diameter. 

After driving a fair distance on lava-strewn roads to reach the parking lot, we finally bagged it, as climbing up the mountainside didn't look like much fun. 

The minuscule dots at the top were people!

If I hadn't taken the photo myself, I would have sworn it was a painting of a mountain across the valley!

Although we'd been driving around the lake, this was one of the few views of Mývatn. In the second photo below was a shot of the bike trail that circles the lake. 

Most settlements around the lake are on dispersed farms, with one, Reykjahlíð, with just 200 people on the lake's northeast corner, the closest Mývatn comes to a village. You can see why its name means Steamy Slope.

This side of the lake had several attractions related to the geothermally active landscape. I walked down to the edge of the small pond and dipped my fingers in; the eerily blue water was cool to the touch. I didn't take any chances and ventured no further.

After cresting the Námaskarð Pass, we had a stunning panoramic view of the entire Mývatn area with the multi-hued Námaskarð Geothermal Area in the foreground.

I found it absolutely gobsmacking and couldn't wait to explore! Unlike any similarly "dangerous" site in the U.S., there were very few ropes or signs to one of Iceland's most accessible and impressive geothermal areas. Although it didn't have the spouting geysers that we'd viewed on the Golden Circle, this site was infinitely more colorful and less crowded by comparison. 

We had prepared ourselves mentally for the pungent hydrogen sulfide fumes, but they weren't nearly as strong as we expected. In previous centuries, sulphur produced by the hot springs was mined to make gunpowder. 

We certainly didn't have the time, nor the energy, to embark on a hike up the mountain to gaze at the steaming vents, or for what surely would have been stunning views back over the landscape. If you do it, please send me a picture!

I took several pictures of this artificial fumarole, as the vapor kept changing directions depending on the strong winds. 

A final look back at what we considered our favorite part of the Mývatn area, although the pseudocraters came in a very close second. Although the parking lot was on private land, the $12 parking fee seemed rather steep.

Further east was the Krafla Geothermal Area, whose Krafla volcano was active as recently as the 1980s. The valley is now home to the Krafla Geothermal Power Plant, which harnesses superheated liquid deep underground to generate electricity. During the summer, the plant's Visitor Center offers free bathrooms, hot drinks, and a brief film about the geothermal process. The first two were more appealing!

Over each wellhead was a geodesic dome, whose purpose was to protect the wellhead and prevent it from any external damage. The first dome was constructed of fiberglass in 1981 for use in the Krafla area, but now most domes are made of aluminium as it is very durable, strong, and also thermally resistant. As aluminium is also very light, the domes could easily be removed from the wellheads. 

In a plug for the company, which is owned by the Icelandic state and processes 75% of all electricity used in the nation, we learned that they were "resolute in their vision for the future... to pursue a higher standard in all our endeavors... and above all, to achieve the extraordinary." The company is one of the ten largest producers of renewable energy in Europe. 

Power plants in the rest of the world that use geothermal energy generate approximately just 0.3% of their electricity. This ratio is 31% in Iceland! Geothermal power plants are only found in the U.S., Kenya, Turkey, Italy, New Zealand, Indonesia, and Nicaragua - what an odd mix of countries!

The powerhouse: 

Beyond the power station lay a trail across a lava field to the Leirhnjúkur Volcano Cone, which literally translates to Clay Peak. The hill, located less than 50 meters above the surrounding lava field, formed during eruptions that occurred in 1980. The hill's rhyolite was porous due to geothermal heat and has turned into clay in several places, thereby rightfully earning its Leirhnjúkur name!

Can you imagine trying to walk through these lumps and bumps? Luckily, we didn't have to!

Part of the access to the crater was via a rather dreadful and dangerous boardwalk.

The trail to the cone was supposed to have been just 15 minutes long - ha, it was at least double that. The longer distance didn't matter, though, once we were again treated to amazing geothermal sights! 

Rather than continuing through more lava fields around the mountain, we retraced our steps to the car, past the power station, to a single showerhead sticking up in the middle of the volcanic plain! It appeared overnight several years ago - perhaps as a prank or an art installation, if you can think out of the box enough. Whoever 'created' it at least had the ingenuity to hook it up to natural thermal water.

Views en route back to Húsavík, our home for the next two nights, via Reykjahlíð's church again, and countryside as pretty as it gets. 

A gorgeous sunset at Húsavík later that night!

Next post: After being so busy for several days straight, we looked forward to little more than touring Húsavík's excellent whale museum!

Posted on August 31st, 2025, from Denver, where the sun finally made an appearance, much to our delight. Perhaps we'll finally get some warm weather after all before autumn's chill. Please take care of yourself and your loved ones.