Fishing lines in the bay:
Our first stop on the peninsula was the village of Port Union, 19 miles north of Trinity. As the name suggests, it was a union-built town, and the only one of its kind in North America to be established by a labor union. It was founded by Sir William Coaker, 1871-1938, an early 20th-century union organizer, reformer, businessman, and failed farmer who devoted his life to improving the lives of downtrodden fishermen.
Under Coaker, the Fishermen's Protective Union established trading stores, a newspaper, and a political party that fought for social and economic reforms. Coaker was a potent force in Newfoundland political life until the mid-1920s. His crusade to remake rural Newfoundland was highly successful, and the union survived until 1960.
One former Port Union resident commented, "...most people in Port Union, ... they, well, they hardly knew there was a Depression going on anywhere else. Because we had pretty well everything here... the electricity meant a lot to us, you know. Pretty well everybody grew their own vegetables, and there was plenty of fish. And we had two doctors here certain times...and we fared pretty well..."
If you’re a fan of or are interested in learning about root cellars, you need to stop in at Elliston, as it’s the self-proclaimed root cellar capital of the world! Hundreds of these manmade, frost-free food preserves, many still in use, dotted the town and recalled the ingenuity of the pioneers.
As we neared the puffin site, we spotted more root cellars.
A sign described how root cellars were so intertwined with Elliston's geography and history. As the rocks shaped the soil, the soil determined what could be grown. In this area of Newfoundland, the soils were stony and not very fertile. Families would grow crops in their own gardens, enriching the land with what could be found locally.
The surprisingly large town of 5,000 people sprawled across the peninsula’s far reaches. It began in the 1600s as a French fishing port, but many people believe that Cape Bonavista, almost 4 miles further north, was the first stomping ground for Giovanni Caboto, better known as John Cabot, who landed in 1497, and ‘discovered’ the Newe Founde Land.
We stopped briefly to admire the horses in Dungeon Provincial Park and UNESCO Geosite, just short of the peninsula's tip. The park was known for its collapsed sea cave, but we didn't take the time to see it.
I was surprised by how luxurious the lighthouse interior appeared.
Cabot, bearing letters from Henry VII, sailed from Bristol, England, in early May of 1497, hoping to find a western passage to Asia. According to local tradition, he made landfall at Cape Bonavista, although all that is officially known is that he landed on Canada's east coast. Because it was the first official English voyage of exploration in the Western Ocean, that was sufficient for Britain's subsequent claims in the New World and the beginning of her overseas empire.
The guide told us that the kitchen was the plainest room in the house because "the fancier rooms were elsewhere."
The pantry was mostly used to store dried goods.
During the 1940s, the personal library belonged to Bradley – we’d now say it was his man cave, according to the guide!
The men’s parlour was the location of a 24-hour-long meeting between F. Gordon Bradley and Joey Smallwood, described as the Father of Confederation, prior to Newfoundland joining Canada. It recreated the 1930s when the debate was swirling: Should Newfoundlanders vote to become Canada’s tenth province? Smallwood ended up being successful in persuading the island’s fishermen to vote for Confederation, or union with Canada, in 1949. Bradley then became Newfoundland’s first federal cabinet minister.
Bradley’s father had been a cabinet maker in St. John’s, the capital of Newfoundland.
The formal dining room:
Across the street was the Cod Liver Oil Factory. How I despised having to take that medicine as a young child!
Another view of the Big Shop:
Next door was the plantation's Barterers’ Shop, but we weren't provided with any other information about it.
The people of Venice had provided this monument to their hometown explorer as a gift to the place of Cabot's landfall in North America. It depicted the Lion of St. Mark's, as the link between Venice and St. Mark can be traced to a medieval legend. It was believed that while Mark was sailing to Rome, a great storm arose and it held his boat in the Venice lagoon. During the night, an angel appeared and said to him, "Peace to you, Mark, my evangelist. Here, your body will rest." Though the monument was presented to the people of Newfoundland in 1997, it wasn't officially unveiled until 2003 by the Italian ambassador, Marco Columbo.
Because of Bonavista's proximity to some of Newfoundland's best inshore cod-fishing grounds, it has long been a major center in the province's fishing industry. James Ryan founded a major business enterprise in Bonavista in 1857 that lasted over 100 years. He processed Newfoundland codfish, also known as saltfish, and exported it to Europe, the Caribbean, and Brazil, and also supplied fishing gear and general merchandise to people in northeastern Newfoundland. Parks Canada chose the headquarters' location and called it Ryan's Premises to commemorate the fishing industry of Newfoundland and Labrador.
We returned to Trinity by the west side of the peninsula. Steven has talked repeatedly about the state of Newfoundland’s roads since we were there in mid-2022! There were so many potholes, but it was tough to weave around them on the other side of the road. We thought we could tell who the rental car drivers were, as they drove far too fast on the lousy roads and didn’t seem to care about the damage they were causing to the cars.
The potholes were so big that they had been painted around the edges. We had our ‘free’ obstacle course driving around them! The provincial government had to have zero money to fix the roads, as we’d never experienced roads so consistently poor anywhere else in the world.
After completing our drive around the beautiful Bonavista Peninsula on the province's Discovery Trail, we arrived back at Trinity in the late afternoon. Once a progressive and prosperous fishing site, it's one of the best-known communities in the province. Though its permanent population is only about 350, it boasts 50 architecturally significant buildings. I was glad we had plenty of time to explore the lovely town known for its beautifully restored saltbox houses, which offered a glimpse into its rich maritime history.
The sign said Parish Hall, 1897-1908, but it didn't indicate which church it was affiliated with. I wonder if it was what we'd call a community center?
The Admiral's Lookout was one of many holiday accommodations in Trinity.
Next post: Onto the capital of St. John's via Dildo, Heart's Content, Winterton, Harbour Grace, Cupids, & Brigus. Yes, these ARE real town names in Newfoundland, as I couldn't make them up if I tried!
Our first stop on the peninsula was the village of Port Union, 19 miles north of Trinity. As the name suggests, it was a union-built town, and the only one of its kind in North America to be established by a labor union. It was founded by Sir William Coaker, 1871-1938, an early 20th-century union organizer, reformer, businessman, and failed farmer who devoted his life to improving the lives of downtrodden fishermen.
The town's Visitor Center and Women's Institute Craft Shop were housed in the same building.
Holy Martyrs' Anglican Church was named in honor of the 11 Coaker recruits who died in battle during World War I. Each stained window bore the name of a fallen hero and the date of his sacrifice.
Under Coaker, the Fishermen's Protective Union established trading stores, a newspaper, and a political party that fought for social and economic reforms. Coaker was a potent force in Newfoundland political life until the mid-1920s. His crusade to remake rural Newfoundland was highly successful, and the union survived until 1960.
Though a major fire destroyed much of Port Union in 1945, the newspaper hung on until 1980. The Port Union Historic District was designated a National Historic District by the Minister of Canadian Heritage in 1988.
The old building in Port Union was likely an old hotel or rooming house.
The fish-shaped sign marked the 'bungalow' that was built in 1917 for Coaker, although I always thought a bungalow was a single-story home.
I was astonished to learn that the union had 20,000-plus members in 1914. Coaker was made a knight commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire in 1923.
The Fishermen's Union Trading Company's saltfish plant was across the bay from the oldest part of town.
Nearby Catalina:
If you’re a fan of or are interested in learning about root cellars, you need to stop in at Elliston, as it’s the self-proclaimed root cellar capital of the world! Hundreds of these manmade, frost-free food preserves, many still in use, dotted the town and recalled the ingenuity of the pioneers.
Likely a more popular reason to visit Ellison is its Puffin Viewing Site. If you recall my fascination with the puffins Steven and I went far out of our way to stare at in northeastern Iceland this past summer, you now know my admiration for the small, black birds goes back a long way! Elliston is the best place to view them anywhere in the province.
It was evident that the town capitalized on its puffin visitors!
Many homes in Elliston were in the traditional saltbox style, an
architectural design named for its resemblance to a wooden lidded box used for salt storage. Saltbox homes normally feature a two-story front and a single-story rear, with a long, sloping roofline in the back.
As we neared the puffin site, we spotted more root cellars.
A sign described how root cellars were so intertwined with Elliston's geography and history. As the rocks shaped the soil, the soil determined what could be grown. In this area of Newfoundland, the soils were stony and not very fertile. Families would grow crops in their own gardens, enriching the land with what could be found locally.
Kelp, a type of seaweed, was added in the fall and mixed into the soil each spring. When fish bones, offal, and capelin fish were also added, they provided a precious source of phosphorus and nitrogen, both of which were essential plant nutrients. The harvest was then stored in the local root cellars, constructed of local flagstone to last them through the winter.
The path to see the puffins:
I took about 30 shots at the puffin site, but nary a close-up. How I wish I had taken more close-ups of the captivating puffins way back in 2022!
Also worth seeing in Elliston is the very moving Sealers' Memorial, a monument honoring the 251 sealers from the SS Newfoundland and SS Southern Cross who lost their lives in the 1914 sealing disasters. The tragedies ultimately prompted government officials to change how they regulated seal fishing.
A boy's dream, a father's promise, a mother's woe: At age 16, Albert Crewe of Elliston couldn't wait to go sealing with his dad, Ruben. But it was the last thing his mother, Mary, wanted, as her husband had already survived the SS Greenland sealing disaster. When Albert insisted he go, Ruben went too, to protect his son. Mary, like many women in Newfoundland and Labrador with sons, husbands, and brothers sealing, did what she could to help them prepare, and then waited and prayed for their safe return.
On March 31, 1914, Mary woke to a nightmare that confirmed her worst fears. As depicted in the sculpture at the Memorial, Albert died in his father's arms on the ice, as Ruben tried to protect him until they both perished.
On the horizon was the town of Bonavista, another dozen miles up the peninsula.
The surprisingly large town of 5,000 people sprawled across the peninsula’s far reaches. It began in the 1600s as a French fishing port, but many people believe that Cape Bonavista, almost 4 miles further north, was the first stomping ground for Giovanni Caboto, better known as John Cabot, who landed in 1497, and ‘discovered’ the Newe Founde Land.
We stopped briefly to admire the horses in Dungeon Provincial Park and UNESCO Geosite, just short of the peninsula's tip. The park was known for its collapsed sea cave, but we didn't take the time to see it.
The horse sensed or knew to come to our car, hoping to get fed. Unfortunately, it was one of the few times I didn’t have any apples with me, as I’d left them back in the cabin in Trinity.
The Fishermen's Memorial was dedicated to men and women who lost their lives in the fishing industry.
For generations of mariners along this coast, the light at Cape Bonavista was their only connection to land while out on the dark sea. One of the most photographed places in Newfoundland and Labrador, this was a prime location to view whales, icebergs, and puffins. However, we saw no whales or icebergs that day.
See the fox peaking out from amid the flowers!
Views from the lighthouse:
The information panel made me think of a bygone era and how tough life was. "Think of a time before radar, radios, and sonar. Imagine being at sea in a thick fog, or on the tossing deck of a wooden ship at night, listening to a North Atlantic gale screech through the rigging. Imagine a single beam of light, appearing and disappearing in a regular pattern, we're bringing you home or warning you away from a threatening coast...Not too many years ago, lighthouses were the mariner's only friends in his constant struggle with the sea."
This lighthouse was one of the "friendly lights." In January of 1833, when the Newfoundland House of Assembly met for the first time, there was only one lighthouse on the island's 6,000-mile coastline. Lightkeepers in outport Newfoundland had a special place in society, as their work was seen as very important by everyone. Tending the light at Cape Bonavista Lighthouse was more than a job; it was a way of life for the lightkeeper and his family. Frequently, the keeper would train one of his sons to be his paid assistant and eventual successor.
Because inadequate housing was a serious problem at Cape Bonavista for many years, two families shared the limited living space until a large residence was constructed for the keeper in 1885.
Built in 1843, the lighthouse at Cape Bonavista is one of the few in the world where we could still climb up the stone tower and see the same seal oil-fueled catoptric light apparatus that was used in the 1800s.
Cabot, bearing letters from Henry VII, sailed from Bristol, England, in early May of 1497, hoping to find a western passage to Asia. According to local tradition, he made landfall at Cape Bonavista, although all that is officially known is that he landed on Canada's east coast. Because it was the first official English voyage of exploration in the Western Ocean, that was sufficient for Britain's subsequent claims in the New World and the beginning of her overseas empire.
The white, waterfront Mockbeggar Plantation Provincial Historic Site dates to 1871, and took turns being a home, carpenter’s shop, and a fish store. It was established in 1870 for the Bradley fish merchant family. Picture a late-night conversation in this house that could change the future of Canada!
The guide told us that the kitchen was the plainest room in the house because "the fancier rooms were elsewhere."
The pantry was mostly used to store dried goods.
The breakfast room and the parlor were the more formal rooms. The latter was used for the ladies of the house. Its furnishings had belonged to the Bradleys.
During the 1940s, the personal library belonged to Bradley – we’d now say it was his man cave, according to the guide!
The men’s parlour was the location of a 24-hour-long meeting between F. Gordon Bradley and Joey Smallwood, described as the Father of Confederation, prior to Newfoundland joining Canada. It recreated the 1930s when the debate was swirling: Should Newfoundlanders vote to become Canada’s tenth province? Smallwood ended up being successful in persuading the island’s fishermen to vote for Confederation, or union with Canada, in 1949. Bradley then became Newfoundland’s first federal cabinet minister.
Bradley’s father had been a cabinet maker in St. John’s, the capital of Newfoundland.
The formal dining room:
Through a window, we could see the stable on the left, and on the right, the Big Store, dating to the 1700s, which carried dried fish ready for shipping.
Upstairs were five bedrooms.
The views the Bradley family enjoyed from the front of Mockbeggar through the generations:
Across the street was the Cod Liver Oil Factory. How I despised having to take that medicine as a young child!
Another view of the Big Shop:
Next door was the plantation's Barterers’ Shop, but we weren't provided with any other information about it.
The people of Venice had provided this monument to their hometown explorer as a gift to the place of Cabot's landfall in North America. It depicted the Lion of St. Mark's, as the link between Venice and St. Mark can be traced to a medieval legend. It was believed that while Mark was sailing to Rome, a great storm arose and it held his boat in the Venice lagoon. During the night, an angel appeared and said to him, "Peace to you, Mark, my evangelist. Here, your body will rest." Though the monument was presented to the people of Newfoundland in 1997, it wasn't officially unveiled until 2003 by the Italian ambassador, Marco Columbo.
According to local legend, Bonavista's name originated in the first words spoken by Cabot as he approached land: "O Buena Vista" or "Oh Good Sight."
Bonavista's Memorial United Church, known for its vernacular classical revival architectural style, is considered one of the largest wooden structures in Atlantic Canada. Construction on the building began in 1918, and it was officially opened in 1923.
Once year-round settlement began in Newfoundland nearly 400 years ago, permanent settlement gradually spread around its coast. Bonavista, like many coastal communities in Newfoundland and Labrador, was first occupied by European fishermen (call me antiquated, as I just cannot use the politically correct term 'fishers'!) a century before that.
Cod was so abundant on the shallow banks off Canada's east coast because the conditions were just right. The banks are a series of elevated platformson the continental shelf. Three major currents meet there: the Labrador, the Gaspé, and the Gulf Stream. Their swirling waters reach the shallow bottom, bringing up life-building nutrients to the surface. The nutrients support a rich ecosystem, making the area one of the world's most important fishing grounds.
Faced with an unforgiving climate and an uncertain fishery, and dependent on merchants for life's necessities, the traditional Newfoundland fishing family was forced to be tough, adaptable, and resilient. One captain told an interviewer that, " We had to look to the sea. There was nothing in the school books to show us how to build a boat, make a net or trap, or about the movements of codfish or seals. We had to learn all that kind of stuff from our fathers and other men. It was a full-time job to get to that kind of education."
When Ryan started his business, a mercantile credit or truck system was well established in Newfoundland. Most fishermen couldn't survive on their own and relied on merchants to advance household and fishing supplies to get by. In return, the men were required to turn over their catches as payment. Under this system, merchants like Ryan obtained saltfish and other staples for export, but they also controlled prices on both fish and supplies. Cod became known as Newfoundland's Currency, as cash rarely changed hands. Although the credit system had many drawbacks, it enabled the expansion of Newfoundland's fishing industry, persisting well into the 20th century.
Ryan, described as "One of the keenest bargainers in the country," succeeded in the highly competitive saltfish trade because he was a "clever, hard-nosed and innovative businessman." Unlike other merchants who were forced into bankruptcy, he avoided excessive credit. He bought high-quality goods, kept up with markets, and took every opportunity to expand and diversify his trade. He was much less vulnerable to adversity than many of his competitors, because he was more self-sufficient.
We returned to Trinity by the west side of the peninsula. Steven has talked repeatedly about the state of Newfoundland’s roads since we were there in mid-2022! There were so many potholes, but it was tough to weave around them on the other side of the road. We thought we could tell who the rental car drivers were, as they drove far too fast on the lousy roads and didn’t seem to care about the damage they were causing to the cars.
Shots at Newman’s Cove:
Another pretty cove:
The west side of the peninsula was assuredly off the tourist path, as it had no services.
Definitely, only in Newfoundland would you see these images! These were in Black Bay.
The potholes were so big that they had been painted around the edges. We had our ‘free’ obstacle course driving around them! The provincial government had to have zero money to fix the roads, as we’d never experienced roads so consistently poor anywhere else in the world.
Summerville across the bay:
After completing our drive around the beautiful Bonavista Peninsula on the province's Discovery Trail, we arrived back at Trinity in the late afternoon. Once a progressive and prosperous fishing site, it's one of the best-known communities in the province. Though its permanent population is only about 350, it boasts 50 architecturally significant buildings. I was glad we had plenty of time to explore the lovely town known for its beautifully restored saltbox houses, which offered a glimpse into its rich maritime history.
The Lester-Garland House was originally built in the 1760s and was the first brick structure of its kind in the province. The house, home to the prominent mercantile Lester and Garland families, had been restored to its 1820s appearance. The mailbox on the house shed a light on early mail delivery in Trinity. Before 1851, when a regulated, government-run postal service was introduced, mail was exchanged through business employees, especially ship captains. The 1851 Act established 12 northern post offices outside St. John's and set postal rates, thereby formalizing the Postal Service.
Next door was the Ryan Building, although the property's original ownership may be traced to William Taverner in 1701. It was acquired by Benjamin Lester of Poole, England, in 1748 after he married Taverner's granddaughter. The Lester family developed extensive mercantile trade along Newfoundland's northeast coast and on Labrador's coast. By the 1780s, the Lester firm was the largest British company involved in the Newfoundland trade.
The company was then acquired by George Garland, Lester's son-in-law, also from Poole. The Garlands conducted business from the plantation until 1849, and leased the property until 1900. A few years later, the property was bought by the Ryan Brothers, who re-established commerce on the site until 1952, when the shop went into liquidation. Except for a six-year period from 1900 to 1906, business was conducted on the site for 200 years!
The recreated Cooperage played a significant role in Trinity's fishing heritage, as it was the location where barrels were traditionally made. Now a living museum, it demonstrates the skills of a cooper in making casks and tubs for the transport and storage of fish.
Built in 1903, the Courthouse, Gaol, and General Building was constructed in the same design as a series of other courthouses from that period. A historical marker noted that Briton Sir Richard Whitbourne arrived in Trinity in 1579, and that when he presided over the Court of Admiralty in 1615, it was the first such court held in North America.
The sign said Parish Hall, 1897-1908, but it didn't indicate which church it was affiliated with. I wonder if it was what we'd call a community center?
The historic St. Paul's Anglican Church was a timber-framed Gothic Revival building with a serene interior. Construction on the church began in 1820, and the building was consecrated in 1827. However, the churchyard cemetery contained headstones dating to the 1700s.
I don't ever remember any other church having biographies, not just names, of parishioners who died in either of the world wars.
The Roman Catholic Church of the Most Holy Trinity was built in the Gothic Revival style in 1833. Not only is it the oldest church in Trinity, but it is also one of the oldest wooden churches still in use in Canada.
The Admiral's Lookout was one of many holiday accommodations in Trinity.
As we strolled along Trinity's idyllic lanes, it felt like the foghorn went off every minute without fail!
Note the lovely tulip bed if you click on the photo to enlarge it!
We wished we'd spotted half of the wildlife other visitors had been lucky enough to see that day and had marked on the side of the house!
Taverner's Path was built circa 1910as a railway hotel, but it became a duplex house when the rail line was not extended to Trinity. Later, it was converted into an inn, as it was built to be.
In the 1800s, Emma Hiscock and her two daughters lived in the restored Hiscock House. They operated a forge, retail store, and telegraph office in the saltbox-style house.
I could see why tourists make a beeline for Trinity, as it easily puts the capital 'C' in 'charming'!
Next post: Onto the capital of St. John's via Dildo, Heart's Content, Winterton, Harbour Grace, Cupids, & Brigus. Yes, these ARE real town names in Newfoundland, as I couldn't make them up if I tried!
Posted on January 16th, 2025, while we're in port in St. John's, Antigua, our third stop on our two-week Caribbean cruise. We're so lucky to be traveling right now, far from the turmoil and angst for so many in so much of the world. Please take care of yourself and your loved ones.
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