Although Steven and I had landed in China's fourth-largest city, Chengdu, two days earlier from Lhasa, Tibet, we still hadn't had the opportunity to explore the city itself. This was the day to rectify that! Home to 14 million people, Chengdu is considered the cosmopolitan capital of Western China and the world's center for Sichuan cooking.
I think you know by now that Steven and I travel independently almost exclusively, forgoing group tours so we can go where, when, and how we want each day. It does make planning any trip more challenging, especially when it comes to transportation, which falls to Steven. We've found that what works best for us is to plan before we leave home, where we'll be staying, for how long, and what sights we plan to explore on any specific day. We don't want to "waste" time on our trips, trying to figure out where to go, how to get there, what to see, and what sights will be open on what days.
Many travelers prefer the spontaneity of organizing their travels while on the road. I can certainly understand that wisdom, as our type of travel doesn't allow much spontaneity with everything booked in advance. Months earlier, Steven had checked out Chengdu's excellent mass transit system, so these were our abbreviated directions in our itinerary to our first stop, Wenshu Monastery, from our hotel: Wk. 2 S. Taisheng Rd. M; tk. L. 4 twd. Wensheng 1 stop 2 Luomanshi, ch. 2 L. 1 twd. Weijianian 1 stop 2 Wenshu; wk. 10min. 2 WM. Thank goodness, we'd gotten our abbreviations down pat, making our itinerary a manageable length!
Wenshu is considered one of the most important and well-preserved Zen Buddhist monasteries in the country. The monastery, originally constructed during the Sui Dynasty from 581 to 618 AD, has existed almost as long as the religion itself. Though the monastery and its temples were destroyed several times, including during the Ming Dynasty between 1369 and 1644, the monks reportedly continued to sit among the ruins, chanting sutras!
The Hall of Heavenly Kings was first built in the 45th year of the Kangxi Emperor in 1706, and then rebuilt in the first year of the Daoguang Emperor in 1821. The center held a seated bronze statue of what is believed to be the Buddha of the Future, built in the latter emperor's 9th year, or 1829.
If you've not visited a Zen Buddhist monastery, this was how it worked: after seeing one hall, you essentially walked out the rear entrance, proceeded through a courtyard, and entered another hall, with the process repeating itself several times. I confess that, after a bit, the statues and the halls appeared so similar that I don't think the monastery's religious ethos made a huge impact on me. What I liked were the images of people worshipping in front of the statues, the scents, and the ornate landscaping in front of each hall.
Views of the Mahavira Hall, which was also constructed during the Kangxi Emperor's reign and expanded in 1818:
The Sutra Chanting Hall was much larger than the others.
The hall was unusual, as it featured a large number of gold statues.
People praying at the rear of the hall:
Built in 1697 and again in 1824, the Sutra-storing Tower featured a Myanmar Jade Buddha, a gift from Myanmar Buddhism. Sutras, foundational texts in Buddhism, Hinduism, and Jainism that originated in ancient Indian oral traditions, guide practitioners toward liberation from suffering or a deeper understanding of reality. The sutras were stored on the second floor.
The Roaring Lion painting conveyed Buddhist wisdom, guiding one to let go of worries, as the lion is regarded as the king of beasts.
An almost 16-foot-high jade statue from Myanmar was enshrined in the Jade Buddha Hall. The building measured five gaps long, with one gap being the distance between two pillars. The gap measurement was widely used in ancient China.
I think the most interesting part of the monastery was observing worshippers congregating to baifo or pray to Buddha.
The Yuang Tong Hall, with five gaps in width and three in depth, was originally the ordination hall built in Emperor Jiaqing's 14th year, 1809, and renovated during another emperor's reign in 1827. It enshrined a 32-armed bronze statue and an 18-armed statue, which together represent compassion and supreme purity.
I don't recall ever seeing so many votive lights before. Do you?
The rear of the temple complex had a small network of paths with attractive landscape features.
Before leaving the 2,200-acre complex, we viewed the 11-tiered Thousand Buddha Peace Pagoda, which was a late addition to the monastery, as it was built in 1988 based on a Sui Dynasty model.
Why can't cities in Canada and the United States have more fascinating sewers like those we saw in Chengdu?!
For anyone concerned about Big Brother, you might think twice before touring China. Using the metro system in Chengdu involves having your photo taken automatically as you insert your ticket, and having security at each station check water bottles and the contents of your bag or backpack. You couldn't beat the price of just two yuan or about 28 cents, including transfers, however!
The Chengdu Museum, known for its striking architectural design, is a major urban cultural landmark with nearly 300,000 cultural relics and artifacts telling the city's history from the ancient Shu civilization to modern times.
The ancient Bronze Human Head was unearthed from a sacrificial pit at the Sanxingdui Archaeological Site, about 40 miles north of Chengdu. It was named after a civilization thought to have been inhabited between 1700 B.C. and 1050 B.C., which was largely discovered in 1986 after being unearthed in 1927. As I've reported before, I remain amazed every time we come across such an ancient artefact in such perfect condition!
The Large, Stone Rhinoceros Sculpture was discovered only a couple of hundred yards from the museum in Tianfu Square. What caught my interest about the 8.5-ton piece was that it was thought to be associated with Li Bing, the mastermind behind the 3rd century Dujiangyan Irrigation System we'd toured the previous afternoon!
This happy character, a Pottery Chef Figurine, was unearthed in the Han Tombs and dated to the Eastern Han Dynasty, 25 B.C. to 220 AD.
The Horse and Pottery Figure of Comedian also shared the same history.
Another ancient sculpture was the Lacquered Wood Horse, dating to the Western Han Dynasty.
As I wrote in the last post, Chengdu was one of the birthplaces of Taoism during the Western and Eastern Han dynasties, when western Sichuan saw the rise of folk beliefs that stressed life after death, with an emphasis on ascension to heaven. In the center, there were two Buddhas clothed in tailored Chinese gowns with wide sleeves and five Bodhisattvas, lavishly attired with shawls, beaded chains, ribbons, and other ornaments. The four-layer composition was arranged in a limited space to provide a sense of depth.
An exquisite Openwork Gilded Sachet from the Tang Dynasty, 618-907:
To escape the social unrest in central China, many eminent Buddhist monks came to Shu during the transition between two dynasties. Xuanzang, who was to become one of the most well-known Buddhist monks in Chinese history, studied Buddhist law in Chengdu. More celebrated monks arrived during the An-Shi Rebellion in the Tang Dynasty. At least 43 Buddhist temples were built and flourished in the city.
The Bronze Statue of Hercules was created during the Tang Dynasty.
Unearthed in Chengdu, the Stone Statue of Bodhisattva also dates to the same period.
The Color-Glazed Pottery Figurine of Retinus, dating to the Ming Dynasty, 1388 to 1644, was a delightful change.
The Snuff Bottles from the Qing Dynasty, 1644-1911, were unearthed from Chengdu's Sichuan Hotel.
Through a screen, we caught a glimpse of the immense Mao statue in the adjacent Tianfu Square.
The next part of the museum that appealed to us was the history and folk culture of the Chengdu area. Narrow streets and alleys are a hallmark of Chengdu, and they tell stories of life, "buried in the dust of history."
During the middle and late Qing Dynasty, Sichuan cuisine flourished when a group of famous chefs gathered at mid- and top-tier restaurants to learn from one another and from other regions, improving cooking methods with Sichuan features. They were the creators of what came to be known worldwide as Sichuan cuisine.
Sichuan opera was influenced by opera companies elsewhere in China, but came into its own during the Republic of China, 1912 to 1949, which marked the end of more than 2,000 years of imperial rule following the 1911 Revolution. People's joys and sorrows were staged by performers and stars.
Sichuan is also one of the origins of Chinese tea culture. The city's tea houses are miniature symbols of the city. A favorite local expression is that "Chengdu is a large tea house and tea houses are the small Chengdu."
The city's tea houses serve as places of recreation and leisure, as well as performing numerous urban and social functions by mediating disputes, facilitating job hunting, and exchanging information. Spending time in tea houses has become an important part of the lifestyle for the people of Chengdu.
The rear of the museum led us directly to the Huangcheng Mosque, one of the most famous mosques in southwest China.
The mosque, one of China's most important Muslim sites, had a delightful mix of traditional Chinese & Arabic-influenced architecture.
Unlike many of the mosques we've visited in other countries, there were no restrictions for us as non-Muslims as to where we could walk in the mosque. That freedom of movement was welcome.
Tiny takeout bakeries and cafes were popular in Chengdu.
A two-minute walk from the museum and mosque was the enormous Tianfu Square I referred to above. The largest city square in southwest China, it is considered as important to those in Sichuan as Tiananmen Square is to those in Beijing. I read that one who fails to visit Tianfu Square hasn’t even visited Chengdu. Well, we certainly visited Chengdu then!
Even Mao was dwarfed by one of the tallest flagpoles we've seen!
A sculpture outside the Chengdu Art Museum on a long walk toward some of Chengdu's alleys:
If we saw one, we probably saw 100 souvenir shops, all selling a variety of panda-themed merchandise. I was excited to pick up panda headbands and other panda knick-knacks for Max, Clara, and Violet, our three granddaughters!
You may know that I am a huge fan of murals, but this was one of the few that I recall seeing anywhere in China.
Unlike most cities in North America, where there's a serious lack of public restrooms, Chengdu had plenty. However, toilet paper wasn't provided, and they reeked of smoke.
The Kuanzhai or Wide Alley was one of the historic alleys that dates to the 17th-century Qing dynasty. It was a far cry from what it once looked like, having been gussied up beyond recognition to appeal to modern Chinese and foreign travelers alike.
I like to think this was a more traditional sight in Chengdu, not one made for tourists.
It was a further 15-minute walk toward the Shufeng Ya Yun Opera House.
The theater was originally a venue for famous Sichuan Opera actors more than a hundred years ago. In recent years, the Shu Feng Ya Yun Opera House has gathered renowned actors from Sichuan and has become a hub for folk culture, where various artists work and play together. We had hoped to witness Bian Lian or face-changing, as Chengdu was the birthplace of the signature skill and home to the most authentic Bian Lian performances.
Sadly, however, we'd arrived too late to buy tickets for the performance. The views of the vibrant buildings and sculptures along the street more than made up for our disappointment.
Next post: A day trip to the Leshan Giant Buddha & Huanglongxi Ancient Town.
Posted on February 27th, 2026, from our home in Denver's suburb of Littleton. At the risk of being repetitive, the big topic around town remains our almost-hot weather of late, with almost-daily temps in the 60s and eight days so far this 'winter' in the 70s. With daily warnings about the constant fire risk to the bone-dry grasses, I know this is unsustainable for the environment, but many of us love the unseasonably idyllic weather. Please take care of yourself and your loved ones.
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