4/20/26: Dunedin's Delights!

While Steven rested at our apartment in Dunedin, I walked a couple of miles toward the city center and the fabulous Chinese Garden, aka Lan Yuan, as I wanted to meander past the gobs of murals we'd driven by the night before. They and many others will be part of the next post, as the Dunedin Street Art Trail wowed me. Princes Street was home to many restaurants, boutiques and shops. There were also butchers ...

... and a baker, but sadly, no candlestick makers!

As we'd experienced elsewhere in New Zealand, Art Deco styles were also popular in Dunedin.

The historic Guardian Royal Exchange building featured distinctive neoclassical columns.

The landmark Moritzson Building, also known as the Stavely Building, was built around 1900. It was heavily damaged by a fire in 2008 before being restored.

Another building that caught my eye as I meandered was the former Union Steam Ship Company Offices and Stores. 

After spending time in Arrowtown's Chinese Settlement several days earlier, having an opportunity to see Dunedin's Chinese Garden wasn't one I wanted to pass up.

As I still reached the Garden before Steven, I wandered around some nearby streets to admire other heritage buildings. In the center of Queens Park was the Dunedin Cenotaph, a 28-meter-tall war memorial built between 1924 and 1927. It honored citizens killed in both World Wars.

Across from the park was the Art Deco-style Toitū Otago Settlers Museum Transport Hall, originally the NZR Road Services Bus Station, built in 1939.

Another prominent example of Art Deco architecture was the adjacent NZR building.

On another corner across from the park in the city's regenerating Warehouse Precinct stood The Terminus, a historic building with distinctive arched windows. It was built in 1880 and has been restored into luxury apartments. The Warehouse Precinct was full of renovated and refurbished heritage buildings housing cafés, burger joints, law firms, and other offices. You'll see in the next post that during the development of this area, public art became a priority and plain concrete canvases were splashed with color.

Another historic building with Art Deco styling from the Warehouse Precinct:

Then back to the Dunedin Chinese Garden where I caught up with Steven. The Pai Lau Gateway to the authentic Chinese Scholar's Garden featured traditional Jiangnan-style architecture. Its green and blue colors were the most commonly used colors during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The entrance represented the face of the Garden, which was built in 2008 to celebrate the historical ties between Dunedin and its sister city, Shanghai, which we greatly admired during our visit almost exactly two years ago.

The Garden commemorated the contributions the Chinese made and continue to make to the city's history, culture, and ongoing prosperity. Lan Yuan's design evolved over eight years to ensure authenticity and cultural accuracy. Its construction was closely monitored by the architect from the Shanghai Museum. It was first pre-fabricated and assembled in Shanghai on a site identical in size and shape to Dunedin. It was then dismantled and shipped to Dunedin, where it was reconstructed and reconstructed on site using artisans and supervisors from Shanghai.

Not only was Lan Yuan the only "authentic" Chinese Garden in NZ, but it was also the first garden in the Southern Hemisphere, and one of less than a handful outside China. 

Have you noticed that I'm always charmed by or taken with beautiful windows?!

The Main Hall and Tea House:

The small pagoda was donated in 2018 by Courtney Archer to celebrate the Garden's tenth anniversary and mark the friendship between the people of New Zealand and China. Archer was a pacifist who worked in China on humanitarian causes from 1945-1952 and again from 1977-1987. The pagoda likely dates from the Qing Dynasty, 1644-1911. It stood in Archer's garden in Canterbury for over 50 years as a symbol he wrote of "the link between China and New Zealand."

In the middle of the lake was the Heart of the Lake Pavilion, with its mirror-clear images of the Garden. Its purpose was to remind the Garden's Chinese visitors of where their cultural roots lay.

The Garden's plants were known for their symbolism rather than for their horticultural rarity or for providing color. Plants in China are grown specifically to represent different seasons, with peonies representing summer, chrysanthemums representing autumn, and so on. I never knew that on our trips to China, twisted trees were preferred over straight, tall ones. Also, before visiting Lan Yuan, I don't remember learning that bamboo plants signify respectability and compliance, as in everything a scholar and gentleman should be in Confucianism.

Are you as curious as I was about why there was a rock mountain in the Garden? I learned that the landscape design of a Scholar's Garden emphasized harmony between Heaven and Earth. The Garden's designers replicated all of nature's basic features, i.e., mountains, water, grass, trees, and sunshine, on flat ground. But, since it is impossible to move mountains, an artificial mountain was created to complete the natural environment. The approximately 970,000 tons of lake rock represent the Garden's soul and came from Lake Tai, China's third-largest freshwater lake.

Each of the 380,000 terracotta floor and roof tiles found in the Garden was handmade in Suzhou. If placed end to end, they would stretch from Dunedin to Christchurch, our last destination in NZ in a few days! The tiles were laid using traditional Chinese tiling techniques by artisans with specialized skills. The roof's curve was again traditional, with each one overlaid on the next at an 80-degree angle. The sweeping corner ridges on each structure were created by a single artisan, who was also responsible for the design of the traditional motifs at each end.

The moon gate, a symbol of perfection and heaven, was a portal between garden views and between inside and outside.

The zigzag bridge was an important element of Chinese garden design. It also divided the lake into two parts while connecting the Heart of the Lake Pavilion to the rock mountain. 

The twists and turns of the many corridors allowed visitors to appreciate a variety of views within a confined space. Inner corridors were intended to protect the scholar's peace, while outer corridors were traditionally used to display the family's history and to bask in the morning sun.

Steven and I have been extraordinarily fortunate to have visited many Chinese gardens around the world, but none came close to Lan Yuan in Dunedin. I shall always treasure its stunning beauty and serene views.

When the Dunedin Railway Station opened in 1906, it soon became the busiest in the country. Its Flemish Renaissance-inspired exterior was crafted using Oamaru white stone with contrasting black basalt. 

Though its exterior was immense, all that was open within seemed minuscule by comparison. 

Hundreds of thousands of Royal Doulton porcelain tiles made up the mosaic floor in the hall.

The graceful stairs led to a small shop and the closed NZ Sports Hall of Fame upstairs. But I certainly ogled the pretty stained-glass windows on either end while Steven waited for me.

Out front was the Cargill Monument, dedicated to the city's founding father, Captain William Cargill, and built in the Gothic Revival style in 1863–64. I wondered why the words, "We are not alone," were on a plaque by the monument.

When Steven and I arrived in Dunedin late the preceding afternoon, our initial stop was at the First Church of Otago, but it was closed. We returned after visiting the station, only to find it was closed again. It was frustrating that a church employee hadn't thought to post their hours out front and online. The only times I could find online were for services. Photo courtesy of NZ History:

The Carnegie Centre was a former library building constructed around 1908.

After spending the morning touring the city, we wanted to explore the Otago Peninsula, which protruded 20km from eastern Dunedin, but was still considered part of the city. It was famous for its astounding concentration of wildlife, including orcas, whales, seals, sea lions, the native and rare Hoiho yellow-eyed penguins, and the world's only mainland breeding colony of royal albatrosses. If that wasn't enough, the peninsula was also home to New Zealand's only castle!

I wish more countries had these signs to make it safer and more considerate to locals.

View of Dunedin and the Otago Harbour and ...

... a grand view of the other side of the peninsula.

The historic Pukehiki Community Church was constructed in 1868. Its first minister, Alexander Greig, served the parish for 36 years and lived to 100. The village, meaning 'raised hill,' was once the center of a thriving dairy district, until sheep farming became more profitable. 

Not a sign we see anywhere in North America!

In 1870, the Australian banker, investor, and politician William Larnach purchased the land north of Pukehiki to build Larnach Castle, New Zealand's only castle. I read that it took more than 200 workmen three years to build the Castle shell, and master European craftsmen spent an additional dozen years embellishing the interior. The family moved into the castle in 1874, but many of his key financial investments failed over the ensuing years, and his family life became tragic. Driven to despair, he committed suicide in New Zealand's House of Parliament in 1898 at the age of 55. 

His children by three wives sold the property, which changed hands several times and was twice abandoned. The castle and surrounding 14 hectares were purchased by the Barker family in 1967. The home's restoration and clearing the growth from the ruined garden became their life's work, but revealed amazing vistas.

On the front lawn stood the cupola from the Zeelandia sailing ship, installed in 1927.

We chose to only see the extensive garden and therefore couldn't enter the main part of the castle via this impressive stairway. The castle provided luxury accommodation, with each room individually decorated in period style.

 Stone lion and eagle sculptures decorated the balustrades.

Next to the stairs was the cafe, which was open to all visitors.

Also on the grounds was Stable Stay, the 150-year-old historic stables, which featured family-style accommodation on the upper floor.

Situated near the castle's greenhouse and garden areas was the 19th-century stone wishing well. As it was no longer functional, it served as a decorative installation. 

Lovely succulents surrounded the base of what may have been a red cedar tree.

 The Alice in Wonderland statue, created by Stephen Gleeson in 2007, depicted Alice holding a flamingo, representing a scene from the "Queen's Croquet-Ground" chapter of the book.

Everywhere we strolled, there were treasures to uncover, each no doubt telling its own story.

The former methane plant housed privies complete with long seats, two large holes for adults, and two small holes for children. After horse manure drained from the nearby stable, it was collected, and the resulting methane was mixed with acetylene in a large bubble in the central room. That gas was then pumped through underground pipes to light the Castle's crystal chandeliers.

Before settlers came to this area of the South Island, a primitive rainforest existed with diverse ferns flourishing on the Otago Peninsula. A Temperate Rainforest garden was planted with a wide variety of native plants as a tribute to the forest that endured for millions of years before it was cleared for farms.

The Tapestry Garden by the Castle's entrance appeared mostly dormant as it was fall when we visited. 

Behind the castle lay the South Seas Garden, inspired by the country's place in the Southern Ocean and the surrounding landforms. Most of the plants were from the country's coasts and offshore islands or from other South Pacific islands.

Through a gap in the garden, we caught a glimpse of Mt. Cargill in the distance.

Just before we left, Steven spotted, nestled in a tree, the whimsical sculpture of the Cheshire Cat from Alice in Wonderland! The figures from the book throughout the propery date from the 1930s.

I recommend that anyone visiting Dunedin spend an hour or two at the historic landmark located on the beautiful Otago Peninsula! It was a window into Larnach's life, and an insight into Victorian culture at a pivotal time in the city and country's history. If you tour the Castle, please send me pictures!

As we drove next to the Royal Albatross Centre, the peninsula views were simply breathtaking at every turn on the very narrow road. Thank goodness, no trucks were allowed on it. 

The charming village of Portobello:

I wouldn't mind waiting for a bus in one of these cute shelters.

Idyllic Otakou:

Notice the serpentine road to reach the centre located at Taiaroa Head, at the tip of the peninsula.

Too cute, right, Janina!

The centre is the world's only mainland breeding colony of royal albatrosses, whose wingspan stretches more than three meters! It was also the only place in the world where they can be viewed in their natural habitat. Once eggs hatch in the first two months of the year, the chicks take flight in September. We headed to the clifftop viewing deck in the hope of seeing the magnificent birds.

Luckily, we did see some albatrosses, but I admit that if I hadn't known this was their territory, I wouldn't have known what birds they were!

What was more striking and memorable was watching an exquisite rainbow appear over the cliff!

We saw that the centre was participating in Matariki Tu Rākau, a national project to establish stands of trees in honor of the country's fallen heroes. 800 trees were planted here by the community as part of the Billion Trees Programme!

Maureen, this shot of the Taiaroa Head Lighthouse, recognized as the oldest working lighthouse in the South Island, is for you.

When we returned to Dunedin, we made a beeline to the Northeast Valley area of the city to Baldwin Street, which has been officially declared by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's steepest street!

Though only 350m long, it rose by 1m for every 2.86m, or 3.3 feet for every 9.4 feet, if that's easier to comprehend! Rental cars were advised not to attempt to drive up the street, which was theoretically accessible only to residents and authorized vehicles. While Steven stayed at the bottom, I began climbing, or should I say, huffing and puffing, up the street. There was no way I was going to miss this opportunity!

 I watched, with a mixture of disbelief and amazement, as these two young people jogged up Baldwin.

I made it halfway, but then realized I was too shaky to continue. 

I give credit to postal carriers and others who must make regular deliveries to homes on Baldwin. I wonder what types of people choose to live there, as life must be so much harder there than in any other place in the city.

Yes, we returned to the First Church of Otago yet again that night, just in case it was open. However, the third time is a charm didn't work!

Next post: As I mentioned at the top, I'll show you Dunedin's very special and absolutely delightful art trail!

Posted from our home on July 4th, 2026, the 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States. For reasons many of you will understand, it's hard for me to be rah-rah at this special time, however. As we've done for close to ten years, Steven and I volunteered on the fire safety line at the annual Red, White and You festival last night at a local park. People gathered at 4 to grab a spot on the grass to listen to the band and other entertainment, eat their hearts out at the food vendors galore, and watch a fabulous fireworks display over the lake to celebrate the holiday. When I helped clean up this morning, I was told that it had been the biggest shebang yet, with over 60,000 people in attendance, likely because most communities have banned all fireworks due to the fire danger! As always, please take care of yourself and your loved ones.