8/23: Rural West Virginia's Carnifex Battlefield State Park

Earlier that August day, Steven and I had visited the spectacular bridge spanning the New River Gorge National River and nearby recreation areas. We then headed to the Carnifex Battlefield State Park where the Henry Patterson House, built in 1850, was caught in between opposing forces at the Battle of Carnifex Ferry during the American Civil War. 

Here on the Patterson Farm located on the rim of the Gauley River Canyon near Summersville about a mile from the Carnifex Ferry, 1,800 troops under the direction of Confederate General John Floyd established Camp Gauley to gain a foothold in West Virginia in September of 1861. Union Brigadier General William Rosecrans, the leader of 7,000 troops in Clarksburg, West Virginia, was ordered to march southward on Floyd and his troops. When the two sides met the afternoon of September 10, 1881, the Confederates' well-entrenched forces were able to drive back Rosecrans' men, causing significantly higher fatalities. 

Knowing the strength of Rosecrans's artillery would be problematic, Floyd and his men successfully retreated that night to the south side of the Gauley River without alerting the Union troops. When the Federal forces were able to move without incident into Camp Gauley the following morning, a vital line was secured by the Union which enabled the movement for West Virginia statehood to proceed. 

Although Gen. Rosecrans with the Northern forces could claim a moral victory, there were 130 casualties and 28 men killed compared to Southern losses of just 30 casualties and no reported fatalities. 

John Brown was an intensely religious man and an abolitionist leader who felt violence was necessary to end slavery. He had led an insurrection to free slaves in the area and had hidden boxes of weapons that had been secretly shipped to him. He was forced to take refuge in the old engine house in Harper's Ferry with the arrival of Col. Robert E. Lee. The militia battered in the door, rushed in, and beat Brown into unconsciousness. 

This pair of handcuffs and the rope were likely used in the capture and hanging of Brown at Harper's Ferry. In jail, Brown maintained to his guards that he was an instrument of God in freeing the slaves. Riding to his death in an old wagon, Brown reportedly commented on the beauty of the surrounding countryside. 

A painting in the museum illustrated the scouting parties that were sent by both armies in advance of the main armies to secure all possible information about the enemy's manpower and artillery strength.  

Long marches through difficult mountain terrain and through icy rivers tried even the most courageous soldiers. 

The museum had an interesting collection of photos of men participating in the re-enactment Battle of Carnifex Ferry.

During the battle, Minnie balls, a type of hollow-based bullets for muzzle-loaded rifle muskets, were inadvertently shot into the wall. 

Most of the lumber used for the rebuilding of this well house next to the Patterson House had come from a large white oak tree that had been uprooted during a windstorm in 2000. The approximately 150-year-old tree had grown near the edge of the woods behind the Patterson House. Imagine what the tree that had witnessed the 1861 battle might have said if it could talk!

We then climbed down a very steep hill to access the Patterson Trail in the hollow. 

The term 'friendly fire' is one we're all familiar with but I hadn't realized that it was also used during the Civil War.  As part of an attempt to make a coordinated attack on the Rebel line, several Federal units were ordered to go across from the Patterson House deep into the ravine known as Pierson Hollow. But, because of the fading daylight, the plan was called off. However, members of the 13th and 23rd Ohio units, tired, confused, and traveling in the dark woods, mistakenly fired on the 28th Ohio troops, killing two and wounding thirty others. 

It was only late afternoon but it was already pretty dark in the hollow so I could well understand how, in the fog of war, the friendly fire had taken place all those years ago. 

We then opted to follow the Pierson Hollow Trail.

The rock looked like a recumbent lion statue!

One of many unusual mushrooms along the trail:

We counted ourselves very lucky we didn't have to share the narrow trail with other hikers in the era of Covid-19.

The canopy provided some welcome shade on a warm summer day. 

This was the scene of the battle between the Federal army led by Gen. Rosecrans and Gen. Floyd's Confederate army. The battle fought here was named by the Union army after the nearby river ferry. When the state acquired title to the site in October 1935, the battlefield was preserved as Carnifex Battlefield State Park.

Even though it was nearly a mile downstream, the ferry was the nearest well-known landmark. The ferry, constructed by William Carnefix (note the different spelling) in the early 1800s, provided an important link between the James River and the Kanawha Turnpike. 

From the battlefield overlook, we had a pretty view of the Pillow Rock Rapids in the distance.

Another half-mile hike through the forest afforded us a better view of the rapids.

While we admired the view, Steven and talked about what we had loved about and in West Virginia so far: the great state parks that were free to all, the gorgeous lush forests, the designated scenic highways, inexpensive gas and restaurants, the many sites for history buffs, the winding roads and wildflowers, the great conditions of even the state's back roads, how much wealthier so many of the homes appeared compared to our preconceptions, and the noticeable friendliness of the people we met! I hope this and previous posts have enticed you to make West Virginia your own travel destination in the not too distant future.

There seemed to be a white Baptist or Methodist church in every small town we passed through as we drove toward Charleston, the state capital! The Fairfield Baptist Church was established in 1918. 

Lyonsville Missionary Baptist Church:

Next post: Charleston, here we come!

Posted on March 6th, 2021, from Denver at the beginning of a warm streak with temperatures forecast in the 60s every day, glory be! I hope you and your loved ones are safe and healthy and are able to soon access the vaccines.