9/18/24: Luxembourg City in All its Glory!

As Steven and I began exploring Luxembourg City for our last full day, I asked someone inside the tourist office what the edifice's name was and was told it was called the Downtown Civic Building and used for weddings, shows, etc.

There was little graffiti in the capital city - at least this was confined to an alley!

A view of Castle Bridge from the lower town:

Luxembourg is built on hills and we got hopelessly lost trying to find the Spanish Turret, one of 38 historic monuments built in the middle of the 17th century, integrated in the large fortifications initiated by the Spaniards. We finally saw it from far below in the Lower Town instead of on the upper level!

After retracing our steps up a lot of stairs, Steven waited a couple of blocks away so I could finally take a photo of it at ground level. I overheard a Spanish guide mention that the bridge bore the colors of Luxembourg's flag. Red signified vibrancy, power, and the people’s determination and courage. White represented their harmony and peace while blue denoted perseverance and determination. The blue sky signified the blue in the flag according to the guide.

I had great panoramic views from the Turret - don't worry, Steven also had marvelous views later, too!

Steven much preferred relaxing in the sun while I explored the city's underground Bock Casemates, a subterranean defense system made up of kilometers of tunnels initially carved under Spanish rule in the 17th century and subsequently twice extended. 

They were located beneath the Montée de Clausen, the clifftop site of Count Sigefroid’s former mighty fort. Through the years, the casemates have been home to garrisons, slaughterhouses, and bakeries and served as underground shelters during both world wars for 35,000 locals. 

Before reaching the Casemates, visitors first saw the archaeological crypt which showed the remnants of the first count's castle erected in the 11th century.

Then, the old castle's dungeon where cannons were passed through the openings to avoid the stairs.

From the gun portals, there were beautiful views over the valley and the lower town: in the foreground on the right was the late 17th-century Eglise de Saint-Jean. On the left was the Ancien hôpital militaire.

After the main gallery was enlarged during the fortress' dismantling in 1867, the Bock Casemates could accommodate 50 cannons and 1,200 soldiers. 

As I passed through the former prison in the belfry foundations, I had a magnificent view over Grand Duchess Charlotte Bridge which links the city center to the Kirchberg Plateau. Steven and I would visit the latter area the following day before our late flight to Palermo, Sicily. 

When I craned my head, I could see a partial view of the Casemates.

The list of safety regulations to enter had been long: no entry under the influence of drugs or alcohol; wet, uneven, and slippery floors; not recommended for people with heart or mobility issues; no carrying bulky items; and the biggest caveat: 391 steps!

I decided to forego descending the spiral staircase to see a passageway designed in case the Castle Bridge below the street was destroyed. 

After exiting the underground passages, I didn’t realize they let out on the Castle Bridge built in 1735 by the Austrians.

In hindsight, I don't think Steven missed much by not accompanying me to the UNESCO-listed Casemates as I only found them moderately interesting. The views were spectacular from the galleries but certainly no better than what we'd enjoy together shortly.

I rejoined Steven and we walked along the Chemin de la Corniche, the pedestrian promenade on the 17th-century ramparts described as Europe's most beautiful balcony! I don't think that was much of an exaggeration as the views were truly gorgeous in whatever direction we looked. 

As the Casemates were on the right, you can see we wandered along the Corniche  a good ways.

It's a little disconcerting looking at this shot from about seven weeks ago as I'm wearing the same shirt and my hair is once again the same color, thanks to Lady Clairol, as I write this from Kairouan, Tunisia.

When Steven and I finalized our itinerary, we hadn't realized that we would be in Luxembourg City at the same time as a major bike race was taking place.

As the Eglise St. Michel was the oldest church in the country, its origin and history were closely interwoven with the capital city. The first church was consecrated in 987 near the fortified castle Siegfried had just erected on the Bock promontory. Though it was destroyed several times over the centuries, the place of worship was always rebuilt, transformed, and extended. The building's turbulent history explains its varying Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements

The coat-of-arms decorated with the fleur-de-lis above the doorway is a link to Louis XIV who authorized its restoration in 1867.

Across the street was the Archaeology, History, and Art Museum (yes, the signage was all in English!) we'd planned on seeing but the bike race closed won much of the center core. 

We strolled through the Old Town and its Grund Gate down to the waterside district in the valley we'd gotten a glimpse of from the Corniche.

In the background were the spires of Eglise de St. Michel overlooking the picturesque Alzette River and the Grund neighborhood.

The doorway to the Musée National d'histoire naturelle appealed to me more than the museum itself as we're not normally fans of natural history museums.

The 17th-century Benedictine Abbaye de Neumünster we'd viewed from the Corniche had been transformed into a cultural center.

A look back at the Corniche:

Our best view of the Casemates was from the Abbey courtyard which is often used as a performing arts space.

The statue of the legendary mermaid Melusina by Luxembourg artist Serge Ecker was installed on the banks of the Alzette River in 2015. The story of Melusina is tied closely to Count Siegfried in 963. When they married, Melusina stipulated that every Saturday she wanted absolute privacy. Over the years, jealousy overcame Siegfried leading him to break his promise eventually. When he followed Melusina into her private chambers to secretly observe her taking a bath on the forbidden day, he discovered her secret: her bottom half was a fishtail! When Melusina became aware of Siegfried watching her, she disappeared into the depths of the river Alzette. The count never saw his beloved Melusina again.

The Neumünster Cloister: 

Around the cloister were a few bronze sculptures by local artist Lucien Wercollier who was imprisoned in 1942 by the Nazis in the Abbaye after he refused to create Aryan artworks.

I was disappointed that none of the staff knew where the famous Black Virgin image and the pipe organ dating to 1720 were.

As we were leaving the abbey, we looked back and noticed a small chapel that couldn't be accessed because of construction. Perhaps that was where the organ and statue were.

We luckily found an elevator to take us back to the Ville Haute or upper town and the Plateau de Saint-Esprit where the city's judicial buildings were located.

Steven and I just had to smile when we spotted Restaurant Mesa Verde as Mesa Verde National Park is nestled in the southwest corner of our state of Colorado!

Encased in a series of 17th- and 18th-century homes, including a bishop's former holiday home, was the Musée d’histoire de la ville de Luxembourg. Seeing the provocative, oversized image of Pure Europe in the museum window was our first clue, that this wasn’t going to be a run-of-the-mill city history museum!

The enormous glass elevators provided views of the museum's rock foundation. 

During the 1960s, the city became an international financial center after the Grand Duchy took advantage of restrictive foreign legislation, the development of the eurodollar market, and a previous law that stipulated that holding companies were not taxed. Luxembourg became a leading financial center for investment funds but that slowed considerably after debates on tax evasion and banking secrecy became more prevalent.

The display case referred to the German occupation of the city and country in May 1940 when the Nazis attempted to 'Germanize' the population by forcibly enrolling young Luxembourgers in the German army and forbidding the use of French.

Another image of Melusina:

The document recording the exchange of land in the Ardennes for a small fort on the Alzette River acquired by Count Siegfried in 963 is considered the city's 'birth certificate' as it's the earliest written evidence of Luxembourg.

A model depicted Siegfried's castle on the rocky outcrop that towered above the Alzette around 963. Gradually, a town took shape around the castle and, during the 13th century, Luxembourg was the main center of a territorial principality between the Meuse and Moselle rivers. By 1340, an annual fair pointed to the town's influence. Charters and archaeological finds have determined the medium-sized town had a population of about 5,000 people.

I hadn't realized the city's extensive history because it was one of Europe's most important fortresses. It initially belonged to Spain, then France under Louis XIV, then Austria before falling under French rule again until finally becoming part of the Netherlands and joining the German Confederation.

We've been in too many museums to count around the world but the circular trompe-l'oeil painting that measured 17 meters in length and depicted everyday life in Luxembourg under Spanish rule was fascinating. I almost felt like a voyeur as I stood in the Marché aux Herbes, the town's central hub in 1655. Though this sort of historical panorama was very popular at the end of the 19th century, I don't recall seeing one like it before. 

With numerous monasteries, churches, and chapels shaping the city and religious practices governing the inhabitants' daily lives, the Catholic church played a critical role in Luxembourg City's development. The Benedictines, followed by the Franciscans, the Dominicans, and the Poor Clares, all found home there in the Middle Ages. From the beginning of the 17th century onwards, the church's influence was expanded due to the Catholic Reformation while also excluding Protestantism. After the Virgin Mary was declared the town's patron saint in 1666, all of Luxembourg was placed under her protection in 1678.

The path to Luxembourg becoming an independent state was long and gradual. After Napoleon's defeat, the Congress of Vienna reorganized Europe, and the Grand Duchy was born in 1815. William 1 of Orange-Nassau, King of the Netherlands, was declared Grand Duke of Luxembourg. The country's current borders were established in 1839 with Belgium receiving the French-speaking part of the country. After the Treaty of London declared Luxembourg's permanent neutrality in 1867, the Prussian garrison withdrew from the fortress. After the union with the Netherlands was dissolved in 1890, a rule of succession ensured the country's own dynasty and the city of Luxembourg gradually became the new state's political heart.

I wish we weren't so tired and emotionally spent to give the thought-provoking exhibition on what constitutes a 'pure Europe' what it deserves here. Perhaps because we're living in the US and removed from the Continent, we haven't needed to wonder if Europe is an economic area, a political area, or a civilization. As the displays noted, people in Europe's different regions sometimes view things differently and perceptions are challenged by outside perspectives. We were asked to consider whether Europe, a force to be reckoned with throughout the 18th and 19th centuries in particular, may have become just a 'province' of the world now.

We had just enough energy left to find and then walk under the viaduct and admire some of the 24 enormous arches built between 1859 and 1861 to span the Petrusse Valley.

The Kaddish Monument by Shelomo Selinger paid tribute to the Memory of the Victims of the Shoah in Luxembourg when the country was occupied by the Germans from 1940-1945. It was named after the Kaddish, the famous Jewish prayer recited as part of mourning rituals in Judaism.

Next post: Visiting the city's ultra-modern Kirchberg Plateau region.

Posted on October 28th, 2024 from Kairouan, Tunisia where we're close to winding up our tour of the country. It's safe to say we've now almost had our fill of mosques, mausoleums, camels, and even rug shops although I'm sure we'll see more of the former in Sousse, Hammamet, and Tunis in the next ten days! Stay safe and take care of yourself and your loved ones.