The previous day, Steven and I enjoyed our time spent at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant north of Nadi in Fiji, but hadn't figured out what the "giant" was! The next day, on our way to Vuda Marina, which was in the same direction as the garden, we passed some interesting rock formations that might have been the giant.
As we drove in Fiji, we were surprised by the large number of hitchhikers and by signs advertising that speed cameras would be in effect in such-and-such a distance. You'd think the latter would defeat the purpose!
I think this and some of the following shots I took are what most people imagine when they think of Fiji. At least I certainly did, and not the hardscrabble towns we drove through from one end of Viti Levu, Fiji's main island, to the other.
The marina had gorgeous beach spider lilies all over its property.
We had traversed the island for almost a week by then, but had never seen this sign for a women's bathroom before!
The boat was a Fijian drua, a traditional, large, double-hulled sailing canoe, historically used for sailing, war, and transport. It featured two unequal-sized hulls connected by a platform, allowing it to reach speeds up to 25 knots.
The mangrove forests by Vuda Marina were called the guardians of the coast because the unique coastal trees grow in salt water, thereby creating important ecosystems where the land meets the ocean. They play an important role in holding the land in place and preventing it from being washed away by waves and storms. Mangrove forests absorb harmful pollution and clean the water for coral reefs. Baby fish also grow up safely after gathering in big schools in the mangrove's tangled roots.
Definitely your smile for the day: a hula-wearing trash can!
We watched as about 10 strapping young men hauled a traditional canoe out of the water and placed it on the blocks.
The banyan tree is known for its roots that grow down from branches to the ground, creating new trunks.
Not far away from the marina was the village of Viseisei, thought to be Fiji's oldest settlement. Its residents are believed to be descendants of the first ocean-going Melanesians who landed about a kilometer north of the village around 1500. Cars were prohibited from entering the village.
As it was Easter Sunday morning when we arrived in the village, we walked over to the church, the largest building in the small village, which was located in the only square. Fiji's first Methodist missionaries also landed here in 1835. From what we observed on our drives around the island, the most popular churches were Methodist and Seventh-day Adventist.
As a service was going on, I didn't feel comfortable entering the church.
The young boy and his sisters seemed bored with the church service and more intrigued by us!
In the center of the square was the village's Centennial Memorial, a focal point for annual celebrations.
Opposite the church was the ceremonial bure, or traditional thatched dwelling, that has received dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth II.
Homes in the village compound were more upscale compared to the overwhelming majority we'd seen everywhere else on the island. I would have loved to know the source of the villagers' income, how it was managed, etc., as it was such an anomaly.
There were a few shops in the village located outside of the 'compound,' including a bakery where I'd hoped to buy some hot cross buns, because it was Easter. Unfortunately, they were all sold out.
Also on the main street was a very affluent-looking Health Centre, which was unusual.
We were glad not to be beaned by the breadfruit by the car!
The village cemetery was also just down the street.
We saw a Chinese Church listed on Google Maps and decided to drive to it. Was the cross red to signify its ties with China, a country normally associated with the color red?
While Steven rested, I walked to the building called H.I.S., which, according to the English and Chinese signage, meant the Heritage Inter-cultural School. Signs indicated that the school "firmly believes that Jesus Christ is the only Savior of humanity. ... In view of the context of Chinese society, we receive the legacy of the Chinese house church, affirming that Christ Jesus is the sole head of the Church, upholding the principle of the separation of church and state ..."
I could hear a church service, but, as in Viseisei, didn't want to interrupt. However, a woman attending the service noticed me through the glass windows, kindly came out, and encouraged me to enter.
Another congregant immediately provided me with a chair. After our visits to China, I feel like I should have known whether the young preacher was speaking Mandarin or Cantonese, but I didn't. Almost all the men and women were wearing white shirts, but again, I didn't know why. After what I hope was considered a respectable amount of time, I quietly thanked the woman and left, as I hadn't understood a word.
Before leaving, Steven and I admired the lovely panoramic views from the church/school .
On our way to Koroyanitu National Heritage Park, we passed these brightly colored structures on the hill below us, not realizing initially that they were part of the Tavakubu Cemetery in Lautoka.
We'd wanted to visit the heritage park, which had six small, largely self-sufficient villages that cooperate as part of a community-based conservation project to protect the country's only unlogged tropical forest.
However, after driving a few kilometers along the very bumpy dirt road, Steven said we needed to turn around. The reward of visiting the remote villages was not worth the risks of driving there.
Instead, we returned to the cemetery. If you've been following my blog for a while, you know that Steven and I have been intrigued by visiting graveyards all over the world. We're not ghoulish, just curious about how people memorialize their loved ones.
Steven Googled "decorated graves in Fiji" and found that they are a significant cultural practice, often featuring materials brought by families, such as masi or cloth, to honor the deceased and show respect.
Obviously, we didn't know anyone interred there, but it was impossible not to feel the love and a bit of a connection from the photos and personal touches.
Seeing the rocks on this grave reminded me of the Jewish tradition of placing a single rock on a loved one's grave, which is considered an act of respect and remembrance. It also indicates that the grave has been visited.
In the distance, loved ones were saying their farewells to someone who had died. However, that part of the cemetery was more "conventional."
A significant number of homes had Hindu shrines in their yards.
Somewhat at a loss for what to do next, we ended up retracing our drive yesterday past both the now-empty Seventh-day Adventist church and the garden on the same rutted road Steven had despaired of, toward Sabeto Hot Springs.
I hate to think what my father would have thought of my spending Easter at a hot springs in Fiji, but perhaps he'd have been mollified that I at least attended two church services already, even if they were far removed from our shared Catholic faith!
These hot springs and mud baths were more on the rustic side, not for the pampered jetset. The rudimentary bathrooms were a good example!
Bea was our assigned guide, leading us through the process of getting mudded - is that even a word?! We gave her carte blanche to paint us with mud, although we clearly had little choice in the matter, it seemed. It wasn't until later that I knew she'd written Bula and Fiji 2026 on my back. What a hoot!
Well, then the fun began, at least I thought so, as Bea instructed us to put mud all over our bodies.
Bea led us to specific spots around the grassy complex to take our photos. Even though she'd clearly done the same shtick hundreds of times before, she was very engaging and made it a fun experience.
Getting into the first mud pool was glorious. I don't remember what the temperature was, but it was so relaxing that I could have lazed in it for an hour.
That was not to be, however, as Bea had us on a fairly tight schedule, and we had other pools to head to next!
The geothermal pools have been sprouting hot sulfurous waters from the earth's depths for millennia.
Once we had almost all the mud off, Bea allowed us to enter the first pool. Though its best days were behind it, it was still fun.
You can see that, although Steven may have been a reluctant participant initially, he later fully embraced the hot tub and mud pool experience. I don't think we quite felt like a million dollars, but it was extremely relaxing.
After we got cleaned up, I took these shots of Sabeto, as the grounds were beautifully maintained.
The tree where Bea had photographed us was a 200-year-old rain tree.
I read a plaque indicating that the natural hot springs had been considered a major problem in the area because the constant flow of hot water ruined crops and made it impossible to build there. However, when US soldiers arrived during World War II, they built a seating area to enjoy the springs. That led to the first use of the springs for relaxation and healing by the local community.
Was this view of the mountain supposed to be of the Sleeping Giant? Your guess is as good as mine.
On our way back to our rental property in Nadi, we passed by the Hill View Cafe. No doubt it had stellar views, but its location on the helacious dirt road didn't seem like a smart business choice.
After some rewarding experiences and others that were more challenging, it was time to bid Fiji adieu.
Next post: Fiji Observations & onto Wellington, New Zealand!
Posted on May Day, 2026, from York, in Western Australia's wheatbelt, after experiencing some remarkable natural sights and vistas in the extreme southwest of Australia on a circular getaway from Perth. Please take care of yourself and your loved ones.
Well done Anne. Nothing like a good mud bath to cleanse the pores!!??!?
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