4/8/26: Wonderful Wellington!

  

Steven was in no hurry to go exploring in Wellington's spitting rain, so I left to go for a wander with the intention of meeting him later at one of the city's old churches. 

If you read my previous Wellington post, you’ll recall how struck I was by the sculptures and other expressions of public art in New Zealand’s capital city. Woman of Words, another example of the city’s dedication to art, was created by New Zealand sculptor Virginia King to honor the Kiwi author and poet Katherine Mansfield. The sculpture was made entirely of stainless steel and featured thousands of laser-cut words and phrases from Mansfield's short stories, diaries, and journals.

The Old Public Trust Building, notable for being constructed from New Zealand granite and featuring an early innovative steel frame designed to resist earthquakes, was completed in 1908. After a major refurbishment completed in 2019, the building now hosts the Public Trust Hall, a venue used for corporate and social functions.

A minute away was the Ruaumoko sculpture, which I discovered represented the Māori god of earthquakes and volcanoes. Created in 1998 by Ralph Hōtere and Mary McFarlane, the sculpture consisted of broken columns and bronze letters repurposed from the demolition of the old Wellington Public Library. 

A pair of bronze lions stood guard at the base of the Wellington Cenotaph.

Across the street was one of the world's largest timber buildings, the Government Buildings, built in 1876 to resemble an Italian stone palace! Even from close up, it was nearly impossible to make out that it was built entirely of wood. The decision to use wood rather than the more expensive stone has meant that the buildings have survived potentially devastating earthquakes with little damage. The building originally housed the entire Wellington-based civil service and the country's cabinet. The statue was of Peter Fraser, the country's 24th Prime Minister, who served from 1940 to 1949 and led the country through World War II.

Wai-titi Landing, with its Pou Whenua or traditional boundary markers adjacent to New Zealand's Parliament Grounds, was once a waka (war canoe) landing beach and part of the Great Harbour of Tara, which was used by Māori tribes in pre-European times. Wai-titi means shining waters.

Another set of the Māori warrior and wahine pedestrian traffic lights made me smile, as it did the day before!

The Hope mural was a "voluntary project to express thanx to all those that get us (people living with cancer) through." As someone living with cancer, I couldn't help but resonate.

After only a half-hour stroll from our downtown hotel, I reached Old St Paul's, described as one of the finest wooden Gothic Revival churches in the world. Built in 1866 from native hardwood, it was the Church of England's Pro Cathedral for 98 years, until the building of the new Cathedral of St. Paul's a few blocks away. Though no longer a place of regular worship, it is still a consecrated church for people wanting to BYOP, i.e., Bring Your Own Priest, for weddings and funerals! In 1967, it was bought and restored by the NZ government, and is cared for by Heritage New Zealand.

The church is also used for musical concerts. Even after only a few moments, I could understand how visitors appreciate the church for its beauty, serenity, and outstanding heritage significance. 

As there was no burial ground on the church property, there were lots of bronze plaques on the pillars memorializing loved ones who had died. 

After the church suffered major damage in the 2013 earthquake that struck Christchurch on the South Island, it was closed for a year to make it more earthquake-resistant. Choir stalls were added because Wellington's notorious severe winds had made it impossible to hear the singers!

Phoebe, the young guide from the Heritage Trust, told us the building was reinforced with new native lumber.

One of the flags, as I faced the altar, was from the US Marine Corps, with thousands of American Marines based in camps around Wellington, and New Zealand was a strategic base for the US Army during World War II. Many of them found a place of community at Old St. Paul's. Phoebe mentioned that they donated the flag to the church when they left to recognize the relationship.

She explained that the People's Window had been paid for by parishioners, each contributing to a glass pane. 

The windows portraying Sts. Catherine and Cecilia were made in Germany and purchased in memory of an art teacher who died young. All the church windows had originally been plain frosted glass, with stained-glass windows added over time as memorials to prominent Wellingtonians.

Seddon's Pulpit was dedicated to New Zealand's longest-serving Prime Minister, Richard Seddon, in 1908, as he and his family were parishioners at Old St. Paul's.

As I was the only visitor, Phoebe then showed me a few of the church's idiosyncrasies. Some parishioners paid for footrests ...

... lockboxes to store their hymnals, name plates to reserve seats for those who paid an annual subscription, and ...

... their own umbrella stands!

At Phoebe's suggestion, I aimed my camera up into the rafters, where she pointed to a mysterious face carved into wood. When that part of the church was built, there was no electricity, so no one would have known it was there except the carver. The big question was who the secret head was. Was it Jesus or possibly the church carpenter?

Hidden inside this pillar was a piece of wood signed by the church builder and his eight carpenters, dated May 31, 1866, shortly before the church's opening. Phoebe said it was only discovered during restoration in the 1960s. 

Illuminated panels were gifted to the church in 1883 and featured a lettering style adopted from 15th-century Italian manuscripts.

The 1,316-pipe organ, divided into 19 different voice ranges, was made of heart rimu wood. 

The cross on the altar had a slight bend after toppling off during an earthquake in 1945! It was subsequently mounted on a wooden base for stability. I enjoyed learning about the church's unusual stories from Phoebe, and I remain astonished by the craftsmanship that goes into making so many places of worship.

By the time I was ready to leave, Steven had appeared via Uber, and we walked a few blocks to the new Cathedral of St. Paul's. Neither of us was impressed by the brutalist-style building after the serenity and history of Old St. Paul's.

A few blocks away, also in the Gothic Revival style, was the New Zealand Parliamentary Library. 

It adjoined the Parliament of New Zealand, where we had reserved a tour the day before. In addition to the library, the seat of government also comprised the Beehive, built between 1969 and 1981, on the left and Parliament House, built between 1912 and 1922, on the right. The Beehive regularly makes the "ugliest buildings" lists!

We entered through the Te Kāhui Mōuri or Clan of Vitality, described as "a physical recognition of Parliament's enduring relationship with local tribes." 

After going through rigorous security, we immediately noticed Forest in the sun, created by fiber artist and weaver Joan Calvert in 1976 as a commission for the newly built Executive Wing, aka Beehive. Sarah, our guide, told us that if an earthquake alarm sounded during the tour, we needed to drop, cover, hold, and stay in the doorway. Now, that caught our attention! The Beehive contained ten floors, with the offices of the most important people on the upper levels. When ministers meet, no phones can be present for security reasons. If that rule were in effect in the US, a lot of recent shenanigans would have been avoided!

New Zealand's Parliament, which had no upper chamber like most countries, was one of the oldest in the world, and, in 1893, was the first self-governing country to grant women the right to vote in parliamentary elections. Māori and sign language are also official legislative languages in Parliament, the latter since 2006. 

In the debriefing or press room, the most senior person is always at the right podium. The press is considered the unofficial branch of power, or a check on members of Parliament.

Sarah pointed out that the coat of arms included the country's flora, fauna, and the country's industries in the quadrant. On the left, the woman represented Great Britain, as NZ was part of the Commonwealth, and the indigenous person on the right signified the nation's heritage.

Sarah led us to the atrium, the official entrance of the connected Parliament House, and where the press gathers to interview government ministers.

So many people had shown their respect by touching noses on the bust of Sir Apirana Turupa, the Minister of Native Affairs from 1928 to 1934, that it had worn down!

The atrium led to the Grand Hall and ...

... beyond it, to the Debate Chamber, which had been the Legislative Council or Upper Chamber, which was designed to resemble the House of Lords in England. Since its abolition by majority vote in 1950, there has been no serious effort to recreate it, according to Sarah. BTW, security measures forbade visitors from carrying purses or taking pictures of staff, including guides.

At the last meeting of the Legislative Council, members voted to abolish the Council by a vote of 26 to 16. 

Signifying New Zealand's close relationship with the United Kingdom, the lectern had the same coat of arms as in England.

The House of Representatives has 123 members who represent approximately five million people. There are currently six political parties, with a three-way coalition, and seven dedicated Māori seats, divided among the parties. There are no independent members; all representatives must be affiliated with a political party. Sarah almost jokingly said that the party whips are responsible for ensuring that members don't get too drunk to return to vote on bills! Only water may be consumed in the chamber. 

There was again the English coat of arms above the Speaker's Chair. The 18 wreaths around the balconies signify where New Zealanders lost their lives in wars.

The emblems behind members' seats represented battles that New Zealanders fought in during World War 1.

I didn't realize when I took the picture of the Timor-Leste emblem that I'd be writing this post from there six weeks later!

I have never seen the word 'noes' before. It signified the no votes.

The door led to the atrium, where the press scrum I mentioned earlier was held. 

After the tour, we took a few minutes to admire the buildings' exteriors. 

A plaque on the current Parliament House marked that on July 26, 1865, the first parliamentary session after Wellington became the permanent seat of the country's government was held in a building on the same site. However, New Zealand's first parliament sat in Auckland in 1854, before moving to Wellington 11 years later. That was the claim to fame Sarah had mentioned during our tour about her country having one of the oldest Parliaments.

The Suffragettes' Garden:

A view of the Parliament buildings, including the library we first saw: 

Another view of the Beehive from the lovely grove of trees:

The entrance gates:

A statue by the cenotaph I'd walked by earlier that morning:

Wellington did a great job putting out the welcome mat for visitors, showing us directions to notable sights. 

I especially am a sucker for cable cars, so the opportunity to take New Zealand's only funicular railway was a must-do in Wellington. It celebrated 120 years in operation in 2022! The tram runs every 10 minutes from the Central Business District up a steep incline to the suburb of Kelburn, a 5-minute journey.

Don't forget that you can always click on any photo to make it larger, if you're interested in reading the cable car's fun history.

In the 1880s, Wellington was booming and the country's fastest-growing city. The issue was that there wasn't enough housing near the city's bustling downtown shops. The hills above the city were used for farmland until enterprising businessmen dreamt of a new hillside suburb, Kelburne, later named Kelburn. 

The cable car was an engineering marvel, stretching 785 meters, climbing 119 meters through three tunnels and over four viaducts. Over 4,000 passengers rode up and down during the opening weekend alone! By 1912, over one million people rode the cars each year, and that number doubled to more than two million passengers by 1926.

The cars were originally navigated courtesy of converted horse-drawn trams. Though immensely fun for tourists, it's vital for commuters and locals.

This was our first view of the city far below. Hint: remember it for later!

In the amusing Cable Car Museum at the top, we saw that the seats were stepped, so that people didn't slip as the car climbed the hill!

Apart from the lure of just riding the rails to Kelburn, Steven and I wanted to stroll around the Wellington Botanic Garden. Imagine people having the foresight in 1844 to set aside land for what the New Zealand Times once described as "the grandest view in the Southern Hemisphere."

We first walked through two historic observatory reserves that contained buildings and structures tracing the development of astronomy in New Zealand.

From the sundial, we had our first glorious views of the lovely homes in the hills above Wellington before walking down to the adjacent botanical garden.

The floral design in the path would be our companion for the next hour or so, as we eventually made our way back to the central business district

Unfortunately, there was no signage indicating the type of tree these were, which seemed to cling precariously to the edge.

The next grove of trees was Moreton Bay Pines.

Hydrangeas have been garden favorites in NZ since colonial times and have thrived in the valley's moist, fertile, and sheltered microclimate. They are originally from woodlands across temperate Asia and North America.

NZ's kauri are among the world's largest trees. One is at least 1500 years old and over 50meters high!

It seemed odd to see a succulent garden in wet Wellington, since succulents are normally associated with dry climates!

The bee wall was a new concept to us.

The tree was planted to mark the coronation of His Majesty King Charles III, King of New Zealand, on May 6th, 2023. I wonder if a tree was planted in my native Canada to honor him? 

Not sure I'd want to sit here, thank you!

Though tea breaks were an unknown luxury in the New Zealand workforce in 1911, staff here demanded a lunchroom and a flush toilet. They finally got both three years later when architects drew heavily on the English rustic charm of the 17th and 18th centuries. The horses were also provided with a stable at the same time. Horses were part of the garden's operation from the outset until 1940, as they were critical for transporting materials up and down the hills. 

The buildings looked timeless in the garden setting.

Specimens from the fragrant garden:

This was called a soundshell, not a bandshell, as we in North America would refer to it.

The tiny duck pond had formerly been known as a humble frog pond before becoming a grander swan pond, names reflecting the garden fashions of the day. 

A nearby bench had one of the sweetest odes to a couple I've ever read: "To commemorate the love of Will and Catherine Chesterman: For each other, family, and mankind." What a love they must have shared!

The Founders' Gates were named in recognition of the early settlers who reserved the land for a botanic garden in 1944. 

We thought we had missed the Lady Norwood Rose Garden, but we happily discovered it a while later through the Garden's Centennial Entrance!

Even though it was late in the season for roses in the Southern Hemisphere, some still had exquisite scents!

Diana: Did you and David have time to tour the excellent Botanic Garden when you visited Wellington? I kept thinking of you both and wondered if Steven and I were following the same steps you might have taken!

We didn't realize that when we stepped off the cable car and looked so far below that we'd be walking on that patch of grass more than an hour later. Anderson Park began as a cemetery until Wellington's first European settlers pressured the city council to establish a recreation ground in the late 1800s.

When New Zealand became a staging ground for US operations in the Pacific in World War II, just six months after Pearl Harbor,  a military camp was built at Anderson Park for the Marines. It was occupied by the US Navy until January 1944, and then by the Royal New Zealand Air Force as a demobilization depot until 1945. Anderson Park returned to being a sports and recreational ground after the buildings were dismantled and their concrete foundations were removed. 

Just beyond the park was a large memorial honoring the Rt. Hon. Richard Seddon, one of the country's best-known prime ministers. We had first heard about him that morning at Old St. Paul's Church. 

After dying at sea on June 19, 1906, on his way back from visiting Australia, Seddon was buried at the former site of the Colonial Time Service Observatory, following an elaborate funeral.

The path down to the Central Business District took us through the Bolton Street Cemetery.

One of the oddest graves we've ever seen was this one dedicated to the mostly naked Harry Holland, the leader of the Labour Party from 1919 to 1933. Unveiled by the prime minister in 1937, Holland had, according to his gravestone, "devoted his life to free the world from unhappiness, tyranny, and oppression."

The more circumspect Jewish Cemetery at Bolton contained 44 Jewish memorials, but there were likely a few more unmarked graves. In the 1840s, many London Jews were struggling, and younger Jews left for New Zealand, where they were allowed to buy land and open businesses. 

This was the only gravestone that we noticed had an indigenous name.

I pointed out the Words of Wisdom sculpture to Steven as we finally returned to the hotel, a good six miles of walking after setting out that morning! Wellington had far surpassed our expectations in terms of fun and interesting sights, intriguing architecture, and a fascinating sculpture trail. It was definitely a winner in my book!

Next post: On to the South Island of New Zealand for the next two weeks!

Posted on May 21st, 2026, from Dili, the capital of remote Timor-Leste, the second newest country in the world, which received independence just 24 years ago yesterday, after being occupied by Portugal, the Netherlands, and lastly a brutal occupation by the neighboring Indonesians. As always, please take care of yourself and your loved ones.