On our second day in Perth, the capital city of the far-flung state of Western Australia (WA), Steven and I headed southwest about 20km for a day trip toward the port city of Fremantle, known as Walyalup to the Aboriginal people. Considered a highlight for many people visiting WA, it's known for its unique maritime character, well-preserved 19th-century streetscapes, cultural diversity, and restaurant offerings.
I don't know that I've ever included shots of highway sound barriers before, but the ones entering Fremantle were so far from boring, so here they are!
Instead of first exploring the city, however, we'd made ferry reservations far earlier for one of the first crossings to Rottnest Island, located about 30 minutes offshore. For this post, I'll refer to it by its Aboriginal name, Wadjemup, as it has been a significant place for the Whadjuk Noongar people's important ceremonies and meetings since it was connected to the mainland some 6,500 years ago. When Western Australia was colonized in the early 1800s, Wadjemup played an increasingly heartbreaking role in Aboriginal history. The island was established by European settlers initially as a prison, incarcerating thousands of Aboriginal men and boys from across the state, and then as a forced labor camp, known as the Rottnest Island Aboriginal Establishment.
Maureen, the distinctive green South Mole Lighthouse was located at the entrance to Fremantle Harbour and was originally painted red but was later repainted to match standard maritime conventions.
Cultural losses: Between 1838 and 1931, state records indicate that 3,700 Aboriginal children as young as eight and adults as old as 70 were imprisoned at Wadjemup. Many of the latter were traditional Indigenous elders whose removal from their communities had lasting effects. Aboriginal communities across Western Australia also lost their role models, decision-makers, and "cultural historians," those who gave guidance and passed on important knowledge.
As a result, many Aboriginal communities were forced to merge, and many Aboriginal women, without support from their menfolk and leaders, were compelled to adopt colonial customs; tribal protocols and cultural practices were neglected due to a lack of opportunities, guidance, and support. In Aboriginal society, there was nothing like prison, and the forced separation from their kin, land, and culture had devastating effects. The impact of the removal of the Aboriginal leaders and warriors was felt across generations and is still felt by Aboriginal people today.
When the Establishment was founded for the incarceration of Aboriginal people in the late 1830s, colonial authorities believed it would be more humane compared to the close confinement of mainland jails. If one were positive, the aim was for Aboriginal prisoners to learn ‘useful’ skills, such as farming and building, so they could more easily transition into the new colonial culture upon their release. However, realistically, over the Establishment's 93-year history, far too many Aboriginal prisoners were sent to Rottnest Island for offenses ranging from petty felonies to murder. Sadly, too many prisoners were innocent, having simply admitted to the charges in order to avoid physical brutality.
Over the years, the vision of the Establishment changed from a training institution to a bleak, unforgiving prison. Introduced diseases caused prisoner deaths, and the transfer of Aboriginal men from the state's north tropical climates to the cold south contributed to sickness. The Aboriginal prisoners, forced to endure strenuous labor in brutal living conditions, were only fed a meager diet of gruel that provided little nutrition or sustenance for such work.
The island's historic Salt Store was converted into a souvenir shop in the island's main settlement area.
On arrival on the island, we 'hopped' on one of the many Island Explorer HOHO buses, which made 19 scheduled stops on a one-way loop around the 19-square-kilometer island.
Wadjemup is the largest of a chain of limestone islands and reefs on the continental shelf off Australia's west coast. Its geography tells a story spanning back far before human occupation, with much of the rock found on the island playing particular geological significance. Fragile microbialites, made up of millions of tiny microbes, some of which may be up to 1,000 years old, are commonly found on the shoreline of the island's hypersaline lakes.
It couldn't have been easy for the tour buses to navigate, with cyclists weaving across both lanes of the narrow road. Renting a bike looked like a fun way to explore the island if you had oodles of time and were in great shape. We had and were neither!
As the prisoner's death toll rose through a lack of sanitation and nutrition, neglect, mistreatment, a fire, influenza and measles epidemics, concerns around the conditions on Wadjemup were raised in Parliament, and many investigations were conducted. Still, resulting recommendations were continually hushed up, and the Aboriginal prisoners continued living in brutal conditions with inadequate food and shelter.
But it wasn’t just the physical environment that had an impact on them. Long-term prisoners became severely depressed by the forced displacement from their sense of Country and community, which sustained them psychologically as well as physically.
After more concerns were raised in Parliament in 1883, the Establishment was finally closed in 1902, and there was discussion that the island should be opened to the public as a summer resort. But the Government declared two years later that a new area of Wadjemup would be a penal outstation, annexed to Fremantle Prison, with the rest of the island opened up to tour groups and visitors. In 1904, European prisoners arrived, but about one in ten were Aboriginal. They were assigned menial tasks while the European prisoners were given more responsibility.
With the lure of bright white beaches, striking turquoise water, and splendid mild weather, it wasn’t long before the island became a tourist destination and it was closed to the public only during wartime. The 1950s' surfing boom brought even more visitors to the island, and it became a surfing hot spot, known for its long, rolling barrels. As a result of the increasing general public interest in the island as a holiday destination, the island's last prisoner was escorted to the mainland in 1931, thereby marking the end of the era of the Rottnest Island Establishment. More about that distressing part of Wadjemup's history later in the post.
Our first stop from the settlement was the shipwreck at Henrietta Rocks, where the Shark trawler lay on the edge of a reef about 50m offshore. After breaking free from its moorings in Fremantle in 1938, it drifted across to Wadjemup, where it grounded itself on the reef, sank, and has remained ever since.
A view of Porpoise Bay, which was popular with bathers and sun worshippers, was just one of the island’s 63 beaches and bays.
Lina: You and your clan of avid cyclists would love cycling around the island!
The views from the Parker Point Marine Sanctuary Zone were as idyllic as anyone could possibly ever wish for!
Instead of waiting for another bus, we walked the short distance along the road to Little Salmon Bay.
By Jeannie's Lookout at the sanctuary, we spotted an Australian shelduck, according to AI Overview.
As we'd observed throughout New Zealand's South Island, there was lots of reforestation taking place on Wadjemup.
In the distance was Wadjemup Lighthouse, the first stone lighthouse built in Western Australia, dating back to 1896. Sitting on Wadjemup Hill, it had panoramic views of the island's salt lakes and the Indian Ocean. But it seemed like an odd location, as it was located inland and on the island's highest point, unlike any other we'd ever seen!
Oh, to be young and not care what you look like from 'behind,' as we trudged up to the lighthouse in the high heat!
This was the first sign we noticed for the island's quokkas that have captured the hearts of Instagram users around the world. We read that even though they look super cute and often happily come very close to you, they are still wild animals with surprisingly sharp claws, and it’s illegal to feed, touch, or otherwise interfere with them. We hoped to see a live one here on the island, not just a picture.
Even after the first lighthouse was constructed in 1891, seven ships were wrecked on Wadjemup between 1858 and 1891, as light improvements were not very successful. This was the base of the initial lighthouse, and it was built by Aboriginal prisoners. It became the lighthouse keeper's cottage when the much bigger and adjacent lighthouse was completed in 1900.
Near the lighthouse was one of the island's salt lakes, among the deepest permanent natural lakes in WA, at 8.5 miles deep and seven times saltier than seawater. Until the 1950s, salt production was an important industry on Wadjemup, when it was collected from the dry lakes and exported to the mainland. The lakes now serve mainly as a wetland habitat for birds and animals.
Wadjemup was a key part of Australia's defense during World War II, as it was determined to be a strategic location to protect sea approaches to the port of Fremantle.
On Wadjemup's southwest side was the Green Island Sanctuary, home to one of Australia's top ten surfing competitions, and resident fur seals. As no private vehicles were allowed on the island, the 900m schlep can't be comfortable when toting surfing equipment.
Before the coach driver dropped us off at the West End or Kooranup, he mentioned that it was the island's narrowest part and most popular stop. Thank goodness, we had reserved coach seats in advance, as 1,500 people ride the coaches and there are 400 passengers on the multiple ferries daily. He half-joked that the WC was the most expensive toilet in the Western Hemisphere, having cost an eyepopping one million dollars!
The Bibbulmun Whadjuk people regard Kooranup as a particularly significant site, as it was likened to a heaven in their Nygoongar Dreaming stories where the people's spirits come home after death. I learned that there are other cultural narratives held by specific families in the community, though not all are universally accepted.
Many tropical species are unique to the Perth coastal area and seen nowhere else in Wadjemup's waters. Underwater caves are home to grey nurse sharks and offshore rocks are critical resting spots for NZ fur seals. It was one of five sanctuary zones surrounding the island to protect its unique marine environment.
As we strolled along the Cape Vlamingh boardwalk, we read that six concrete searchlight facilities were located along the island's coastline during the war. Because of its exposed position, the West End experiences wind gusts up to 118 km/h, and they have affected plant growth.
Striking black-and-white Oystercatchers:
The island’s West End was dominated by a different kind of rock, Tamala Limestone, which dated back approximately 140,000 years, when the sea level was about 130m lower than what it is today. Though Wadjemup is further out in the ocean, its waters are also surprisingly warm, thanks to the Leeuwin Current, which flows along the west coast of Australia. The island's air temperature is usually a few degrees cooler than Perth in the summer and warmer in the winter.
Paradise!
We didn't see exciting animals, only this King's Skink, a large lizard native to southwestern Western Australia, that I was able to identify only thanks to AI.
A view from the bus en route to the City of York Beach, named after a shipwreck:
If you happened to read my last post about the city of Perth, you likely remember that we first came across blue trees there, and that their purpose is to raise awareness for mental health in Australia.
Another of the island's saline lakes - the green tint was from the bus windows!
Little Parakeet Bay looked like a boater's paradise from the bus.
As we neared the settlement, we saw the biggest lake yet. I asked the coach driver which it was, but he didn't know, but he told us that the wind turbines had been put in place to upgrade the island's infrastructure.
On arrival back at the settlement, we went immediately to the Wadjemup Museum, located in the Old Mill and Hay Store, as we only had limited time before our reserved ferry departure back to Fremantle. While Steven toured the museum, which recounted the island’s history from both a European and Aboriginal perspective, I was curious about the Yoowarl Koorl Djinang, the outdoor art installation at the Wadjemup Museum Sculpture Garden. Meaning Come Look See in the Whadjuk Noongar language, each new piece explored personal stories and connections, inspired by the cultural landscapes at Wadjemup.
As the site of the most deaths in custody and the largest known Aboriginal burial ground in the country, Wadjemup has been described as the closest Australia has ever come to having a concentration camp. Just steps away from the museum was the Quod, or main prison building, where several men shared tiny cells with no sanitary facilities, and it was the site of 370 Indigenous people's deaths. Visitors staying at the Quod when it served as a hostel were oblivious of the past atrocities that took place there. When we visited the island, the Quod was being renovated, so this was the best shot I could get of its interior.
Across the Heritage Common was the former Lomas Cottage, a historic building constructed in 1871 for ex-convict John Lomas.
Out front of the current Museum for Children was a sculpture made of chains, called Always Was, Always Will Be - it seemed like a searing indictment of Aboriginal life at Wadjemup.
More views of the prison:
As I mentioned earlier, Wadjemup has always been a place of cultural significance for the Whadjuk Noongar people. When the island's golf club infrastructure was expanded in 1970, human remains were discovered, but there was no public announcement of the breaking news, and the remains were reburied. The glaring omission to recognize the discovery of the graves was felt by many people to be callous and disrespectful. It took until 1985 for the Aboriginal Cemetery to be recorded and protected under the Aboriginal Heritage Act 1972. After the prison closed, one of Australia's largest Aboriginal burial grounds was largely forgotten about.
In 1992, the assumed cemetery area was fenced off and signs erected to inform the public of the site’s significance. When more bone fragments were found in the island’s main camping area the following year, about 100 meters from the known Aboriginal cemetery site, it instigated a significant acknowledgment by the state government in 1994 to recognize Wadjemup as the largest site of Aboriginal Deaths in Custody in Australia.
Even though the cemetery may have been officially 'recognized,' there wasn't a speck of signage anywhere a few months ago marking its existence. What a travesty in my mind. I was only able to find it because of a superb museum volunteer who told me where to look. Not surprisingly, there was no other 'soul' there, which I found sad.
A few minutes' walk away was the Old Schoolhouse, a cottage built in 1890 and later designated a schoolhouse, which functioned from 1910 to 1962.
Once the prison was established, the Aboriginal prisoners played a critical role in constructing buildings, seawalls, and streets on the island, using cheaper locally sourced materials. Island limestone was quarried for use on the island and many government buildings on the mainland.
At last, we saw several quokkas near a cafe in the main settlement area, as the nocturnal marsupials have become accustomed to tourists' daytime schedules. Strangely, there were no signs not to feed them, even though they were most plentiful in that spot!
Since I still had a few minutes to spare, I returned to the museum to thank Jon, the excellent volunteer who had directed me to the cemetery. He held up a layout of the octagon-shaped Quod, in which up to 25 prisoners were confined to 10'x 4' cells, so they could be more easily watched from the inner part of the octagon.
He explained that dead Aboriginal prisoners were buried in a vertical fetal position facing east. I wish now I'd asked Jon why he thought they were buried in that manner. He added there was a separate burial ground for non-Aboriginals who died at Wadjemup. I was surprised to learn that twenty percent of WA's population was Aboriginal.
I didn't have as much time as I'd have liked to examine the museum's artifacts, but I don't regret spending time at the cemetery.
An original Quod cell door from 1880:
The images portrayed Aboriginal prisoners, circa 1889.
I later read that the museum gallery "conveyed powerful themes of resilience, remembrance, and community stories that have emerged from the colonisation of Wadjemup."
The Prisoner Chains and Wrist Lock were found on the island's western end near the former Salt Works, which was operated by Aboriginal prisoners.
We only learned at the museum that the Rottnest Island name came from a Dutch captain in the 17th century who mistook the quokkas for rats and consequently referred to the island as t elyandt t, meaning rats nest island in Dutch.
A long overdue apology: Over time, the island's history as a place of incarceration was concealed. It was important to learn that the Rottnest Island Authority, which was assigned the statutory authority to manage recreational and holiday facilities on the island in 1987, "played a historically significant role in the obfuscation of the Aboriginal prison history. It is acknowledged that many past practices of those entrusted with management of the island were not respectful of Aboriginal peoples or the cultural significance of the island. We recognise that this has caused great pain and anguish with Aboriginal communities. For this, we apologise... We will continue to work in collaboration with the Whadjuk Noongar people and the wider Aboriginal communities of Western Australia to promote reconciliation and acknowledge the past."
The Military Barracks were built in 1844 for the soldiers guarding the Aboriginal prisoners. After 1903, the Barracks were used for holiday accommodation, as seen in this 1917 photo.
While waiting for the ferry, we spent a few minutes listening to the Welcome to Country, the Aboriginal ritual that recognizes the area of land where Whadjuk Noongar people traditionally lived, hunted, and gathered. The Koora-Yeye-Boordawan-Kalyakoorl or the Past-Present-Future-Forever sculpture also reinforced the spiritual connection of being one with the land.
I don't know about Steven, but I remember feeling emotionally drained as we left Wadjemup and returned to Fremantle. While it had been a lark visiting the beaches and exploring the gorgeous piece of paradise, it was vital to learn about its dark history.
Next post: Exploring fun Fremantle, but also a city with its own tragic past.
Posted on August 3rd, 2026, from our home west of Denver two days after our adopted state of Colorado celebrated its sesquicentennial, or 150th anniversary! We also found out today that a bear has found a new home in a tree in our neighborhood park that I walk in constantly - that's a little too close for comfort, thank you! Even if there are no bears near you, please take care of yourself and your loved ones.
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