After spending the morning and early part of the afternoon having a blast at a junkyard full of giant, whimsical animal sculptures and then at Lassen Volcanic National Park, we headed back to the small town of Burney, named for an early English settler killed in 1857 in a Native American raid. Near the town was the second oldest state park in California, McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park.
We decided to hike the Falls Loop Trail so we could see as much of the park as possible. The trail would take us 100 feet down into the canyon to Burney Creek. The canyon's walls had recorded millions of years of volcanic history in their fractured and weathered basalt surfaces.
About three million years ago, Burney Falls had stood about a mile downstream from where we were standing. But the slow, erosive power of water has since moved the falls upstream to their current location. Water still shaped the falls, helping to wear away the softer portions of the cliff face and undercutting the harder rock on top. I wonder where the falls will be standing one million years from now!
I read that the mist from the falls 'bathes' Burney Canyon year-round which has made it ideal growing conditions for plants not normally found in this region. Douglas fir and thimbleberry - a relative to the raspberry - usually grow closer to the coast or in the rainy Pacific NW. But in the falls' cool, moist environment, both thrive in Burney Canyon and Burney Creek. California black oak and Oregon white oak, more common in drier areas, also grow right here.
The falls had been designated a National Natural Landmark in 1984 by the National Park Service because the site "possesses exceptional value as an illustration of the nation's natural heritage and contributes to a better understanding of man's environment."
There were too many people by the pool to make us feel comfortable during Covid-19 to want to go down to the water's edge. The water, with a temperature of just 48 degrees, was too chilly to swim in.
This pool has been a destination for thousands of years with the Illmavi, a band of the Pit River Native American tribe, holding rituals there for as long as they can remember and continue to do so to the present day.
As we walked next to this towering mountain of rocks, I remember clearly thinking I sure hoped there was no avalanche or we'd be crushed in an instant.
Large trees which had lured loggers to the area grew thickly on the hillsides and provided habitat for birds and other animals.
Some of the plants growing in the narrow strip of land, called a riparian zone, bordering Burney Creek were so delightful. Some of them grew almost nowhere else in the region, even in the riparian zone above the waterfall. The cool, moist temperatures in the canyon made this an ideal spot for flora.
A sign said that Lower Burney Creek teemed with aquatic life including rainbow trout, clams, mussels, and otters. The main draw for most people who come to fish here were the trout - the native rainbow trout and self-sustaining populations of brook and brown trout would be a lure for all anglers.
Oh, to be young! Steven asked me if I wanted him to take a picture of me in the same spot. Not on your life, I said!
I agreed with these sentiments.
This was the footbridge we had just been on before we then began climbing up the other side of the canyon. The trail was easy but fairly steep.
A view of the creek above the falls:
The combination of the absence of water and the presence of regular fires have helped shape the forest. That was why Large Ponderous Pine trees grows throughout California in places with dry summers and historically frequent fires. A tree I'd never heard of before, Incense cedars, grow among the pines and do very well in these dry regions. Before the 20th century policy of wildland fire suppression, cedars were less common in pine forests than they are today.
The splendor of Burney Falls has captivated people for thousands of years. Some say that President Theodore Roosevelt called the falls "the eighth wonder of the the world." The McArthur family believed so strongly that the falls should be protected that they purchased the land and water right and then sold them for just a dollar to the state for preservation as a park.
It was mind boggling to think that even though one hundred million gallons of water flow daily over the falls, just a mile upstream, Burney Creek is dry in the summer. We learned that the water rushing over the falls first travels underground beginning in the spring with melting snow on Burney Mountain seeping through fissures in the rock and then gathering in ancient underground stream channels. The water finally flows through the channels toward the falls. When the channels end about three quarters of a mile upstream, the water encounters solid rock and most of it is therefore forced to the surface. The water then flows down Burney Creek 129 feet over the cliffs to the pool below. Finally, the water flows through the canyon to Lake Britton to Pit River and lastly to the Pacific Ocean.
The park's campground, many trails and other facilities were built by the Civilian Conservation Corps between 1934 and 1937. The park was named for Samuel Burney, a 19th century pioneer, and the McArthur family who once owned the land.
It was reassuring seeing the sign by the park store. Sadly, though we have noticed many signs like this, all too often shoppers disregard the signs and store employees either have been instructed not to say anything for fear of a backlash or willingly choose to ignore the rule breakers.
One last look at the park's majestic incense cedars:
Next post: Emergency room visit the next morning!
Posted on September 13th, 2020, from Hudson, Florida. We had planned to return to our favorite state park on Florida's Panhandle tomorrow morning but with another hurricane threatening the Southeast, we changed our plans and will be heading to the Carolinas for about two weeks and then return to Grayton Beach near the end of the month. Until I post again, Steven and I hope that you stay safe, stay healthy, AND stay connected during these tough times.
"Breathe in the beauty" !! And what beauty ... the thunderous waterfalls and towering majestic trees !! WoW !!
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